ferroli optima 701 no ignition for pilot light, buzzing ry 4

[Slugbabydotcom]

Fan normally runs after the pump so disconnect the fan next and see if the fuse blows with just the pump running.

 

[phillip27]

Hi There,

I have done this as you have said and the fuse dont blow, and led lights stay on, but there is a loud clicking noise which made me jump to be honest from by the pump area, so i shut the system off straight away by taking out the main fuse from the main supply into the pcb board. What do you think this is, or does this mean it is the fan making it do this.?

Thanks
Phillip

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I have done this as you have said and the fuse dont blow, and led lights stay on, but there is a loud clicking noise which made me jump to be honest from by the pump area

I feel that the pump seems to be running fine and the relay is clicking as it tries to feed power to the fan. This would point towards a fault at the fan relay or in some stage after that.

At this point I would be checking the resistance of the pump and fan.

Your next step is to remove the plug that has terminals 4 and 5 on X4 if you can. This powers your gas valve [suspect number 3]
1 and 2 power the board. Hopefully these are on a separate plug

All depends on whether your fuse pops or not

If you look on the MI's I sent you will see that the pump connects to X6 terminals 1 and 3 on the board and the fan connects to 1 and 2 on X5 Careful testing from the points mentioned will point you in the right direction if you can drive a multimeter. You will need to use one to progress much further.

Could you have a plug fitted upside down? Just a thought

 

[phillip27]

I am really worried a minute can you email me back with any thoughts
regarding same. I have just purchased a brand new fan for just £120 + vat,
got back to my house and fitted it on perfectly and correct, now when I put
it on and switch power on that clicking noise I told you about just went for
a few secounds and then stopped, and guess what I actually had the fan kick
in, and then gave it approx 20 seconds and pushed the button to get it
sparked up, which it did and I put the water on and it was fab and hot. That
said the really worry now is the pilot has gone back out and for some reason
I cant get it to fan up now to re-light it again, could u tell me what is
happening here now.? Just for you to no i just took the front panel off
again and the led lights on the board are all on and nothing has fused so
whats going on mate do you no.? I was really excited for a minute and happy
cos my Mrs is due home with kids and wanted them to feel nice and happy to
about it being back on.

Please Helppppppppp

Thanks
Phillip

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Turn the power supply off to the boiler.
Put the cover back on or wait 30 seconds if you already did that.
Turn power back on and restart ignition process.
Tell me how far you get and what leds are showing

 

[Helli]

The chattering Relay is the one to the far right of the PCB and often looks burnt due to the sparks caused as it chatters. After much searching and testing I've managed to cure this fault for about £6.

The chattering relay is actually caused by a breakdown in the small blue capacitor located close to it. This can be replaced for about 20p with a 10uF 100v (or bigger) electrolytic Cap. Don't worry if the replacement is physically bigger, just bend the legs. This may cure the fault; if not and the relay's knackered, replace the relay with a 48vDC 8A double pole one. The SCHRACK original seems difficult to locate in the UK but I got a similar spec one off ebay for £5 and it works great.

Thanks to Mr Bardwell on Abbeydale Rd Sheffield & Hartley Electrical Repairs on London Rd Sheffield for diagnosing the capacitor as the cause of the problem. Saved me £'s!