Festoon lighting

[ban-all-sheds]

I've installed tiny webcams all over your house.

 

[Gees]

I've installed tiny webcams all over your house.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I even put one in the toilet:

 

[LoveRocket]

what transformer would i need i think a 1000KA??

Hmm.

1000KA @ 110V.

Too big for the public supply - you'll need a generator.

Have you got somewhere you could put something like this?:

Sorry - couldn't resist....

I don't think a poxy little thing like that could provide the 110MW the OP needs.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I guess it might only be 60MW - I was banking on the company publicising itself with that photo using one of their big generator, not the small one.

 

[Hager]

HI

It would be odd for a 110v site transformer to trip a B32. Either your circuits are already highly loaded, it's an unusually large transformer, or the circuits are protected by a relatively small/overly sensitive MCB.

It's A Hager B20 for the shed due to the cable only being 2.5mm T&E the only load on the shed it 100W lighting.

You could use CFLs

Can you get IP44 CLFs? the set will be used outside.

would this be correct?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-3-KVA-SITE-...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2305bef208

 

[electronicsuk]

would this be correct?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-3-KVA-SITE-...nents_Supplies_ET&hash=item2305bef208[/QUOTE]

That would do the job, although it still wont get around your tripping problems. If the circuit allows, it may be possible to upgrade the breaker to a C20, which might help.

 

[Gees]

I even put one in the toilet:

You should have seen it before I cleaned it !!

 

[Hager]

Hager wrote:


would this be correct?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-3-KVA-SITE-...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2305bef208


That would do the job, although it still wont get around your tripping problems. If the circuit allows, it may be possible to upgrade the breaker to a C20, which might help.

I will buy that then and see if it trips or not. It should be possible to upgarde to a C20.

Thanks
Jake

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It should be possible to upgarde to a C20.

What did you measure your Zs with, and what was it?

 

[Hager]

HI
When we had our CU done and the shed wired i never saw any such equipment to test the circuits and we didn't get no certificates with it (i didn't know anything about certificate at the time).

I think he was a cowboy but he did a good cheap, job if you look in my album you will see what he did.

EDIT; can i use these and a 750KVA transformer?
http://www.vanstockuk.co.uk/acatalog/110v_Festoon_Lighting.html

Thanks
Jake

 

[ericmark]

HI
When we had our CU done and the shed wired i never saw any such equipment to test the circuits and we didn't get no certificates with it (i didn't know anything about certificate at the time).

I think he was a cowboy but he did a good cheap, job if you look in my album you will see what he did.

EDIT; can i use these and a 750KVA transformer?
http://www.vanstockuk.co.uk/acatalog/110v_Festoon_Lighting.html

Thanks
Jake

Not impressed. To put all but the lights on a single RCD means likely to trip. The use of a duct in concrete is good but the twin and earth cable likely to be damaged so either I would use SWA or at least put some protection around it.
The idea of mixing MCB at house and fuse in shed not so good as the discrimination could result in MCB in house tripping before fuse blows in shed.

There should have been two bits of paperwork. The Installation Certificate which all electricians should produce and this has all the details of test figures etc and is really the important bit. Second you should have the completion certificate this could come from electricians scheme provider or from local council building control and he does not have to do this work for you if not member of a scheme and it could have been left to you to inform council and pay fees. Where the electrical work is either for disabled (They don't pay fees) or part of a larger project which as a whole needed LABC involvement it is often left to the owner to sort out. But for one off jobs one would normally expect the electrician to do it for you.

However the LABC will want to see the installation certificate and only the person in charge of the work can make out one of those. Sometimes this will accept a PIR but not really the right way of doing things.

When I see work without an installation or minor works certificate I wonder why? What does he not want to put his name against. I have been surprised to find how many RCD's fail the timed test and unless one has the test equipment how could anyone know it was faulty. Often the reason for not testing is the guy does not have his own test equipment he works for some firm cards in and is doing work on the side. Nothing wrong with that but without a test set he is really taking a chance.

Having said that my lights were removed and refitted when my ceiling fell in after a water leak and the electrician sent by insurer did test and write down all his readings but they were never forwarded to me. I was of course not the client so they should be sent to insurer who does not have to forward so there are cases where an A1 job is done but no paperwork is received by you.

 

[Hager]

Not impressed. To put all but the lights on a single RCD means likely to trip. The use of a duct in concrete is good but the twin and earth cable likely to be damaged so either I would use SWA or at least put some protection around it.
The idea of mixing MCB at house and fuse in shed not so good as the discrimination could result in MCB in house tripping before fuse blows in shed.

The lights are not on an RCD in side there a a brake leaving to ways left for RCBO's (they are now taken due to loft conversion)

He should have used SWA he did from our cut out (inside the white box with the cut out and meters) to a steel box and meter tails going to out CU.

I do keep meaning the change them fuses to MCBs the shed MCB has and does trip before the Fuses to that's the problem with the 110V transfomers.

There should have been two bits of paperwork. The Installation Certificate which all electricians should produce and this has all the details of test figures etc and is really the important bit. Second you should have the completion certificate this could come from electricians scheme provider or from local council building control and he does not have to do this work for you if not member of a scheme and it could have been left to you to inform council and pay fees. Where the electrical work is either for disabled (They don't pay fees) or part of a larger project which as a whole needed LABC involvement it is often left to the owner to sort out. But for one off jobs one would normally expect the electrician to do it for you.

Nope none of that at the time we did have the DNO's out the change our cut out and put a 2nd meter in (we have 2 meters).

However the LABC will want to see the installation certificate and only the person in charge of the work can make out one of those. Sometimes this will accept a PIR but not really the right way of doing things.

We have had a loft converison and a new bolier plus some smoke alams done they did a PIR and some testing with a megger tester with 3 leads Black, red and green.

When I see work without an installation or minor works certificate I wonder why? What does he not want to put his name against. I have been surprised to find how many RCD's fail the timed test and unless one has the test equipment how could anyone know it was faulty. Often the reason for not testing is the guy does not have his own test equipment he works for some firm cards in and is doing work on the side. Nothing wrong with that but without a test set he is really taking a chance.

yes good point well i was looking into getting some test equipment mainly and RCD tester ( this is what i was going to get http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180518489228&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
He does work for him self not a company.
if you were the see some of his joints on cables hes done you won't be supprised the usal tape round them there was a 32A joint that had to be redone (it was on the shower).

Having said that my lights were removed and refitted when my ceiling fell in after a water leak and the electrician sent by insurer did test and write down all his readings but they were never forwarded to me. I was of course not the client so they should be sent to insurer who does not have to forward so there are cases where an A1 job is done but no paperwork is received by you.

I was the client so should have got the paper work.

Thanks
Jake

 

[LoveRocket]

EDIT; can i use these and a 750KVA transformer?
http://www.vanstockuk.co.uk/acatalog/110v_Festoon_Lighting.html

Thanks
Jake

A 750kVA transformer would trip your 100A service fuse if it had the chance, never mind a 20amp breaker. Why do you think you need so much power for some lights? 750kVA is three quarters of a megawatt! (assuming a PF of unity of course)

A C20 and a normal 3kVA site tranny is the way to go, but as Banal has said you must check the Zs of the circuit is in limits for a C20 before you change it, you can't just replace it willy-nilly!

 

[Hager]

Sorry am I getting confused I ment a 0.75kva one this is it
www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SDTR750slash1.html
I don't feel I need a 3kva one for a 429w @ 3.9a pull.

Jake