First EVER serious diy project Re - Tile Bathroom

[djhackett1]

So ... After years of relying on the old man for help I've decided that I need to start getting the job done solo (apart from anything his eye is definitely out ... straight lines aren't so straight anymore !)

So, I am re-tiling a bathroom, pulling up the laminate floor and using 60/30 porcelain tiles for both the wall and floor.

The tiles will only be up to the coving around the bath (maybe considering buying some sort of wood and tiling that as the bath panel too ..?)

Now I've always either rushed or bodged things in my old flat but as I quite like my new house things need to start being done proper. So I have removed EVERYTHING in order to proerly tile and lay things back on top rather than put some dodgy cuts around the suite.

I've levelled the bath perfectly so will start from there and it will be a basic pattern, no small slithers on each end etc...

I've even gone as far as buting the LASH levelling clips to take the guess work out.

as you can under the laminate was some self levelling concrete and I took away the underlay.

Am I right in thinking that backer board is the way to go as some of the timber is still showing ???.... and do I need any sort of underlay ?

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod3920/section1061/Hardiebacker-500-Cement-Board-12mm.html

Also the walls appear pretty flat, I've removed all the old adhesive, sanded then sanded again... and again.

Finally I made the mistake of buying a cheap wickes tile cutter. Tried it once and it was shocking so will renting a rubi cutter for two days next week.

Any tips are very much appreciated.

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[ree]

Do you intend to replace the pedestal basin, and WC back in the same positions?
The WC spigot will be slightly higher than before but an offset Multiquick will take care of that.

I dont understand the reference to "cove"? The walls should be tiled on to the existing plaster as it is.

The floor can be covered with 12mm (cheap) ply. No underlay necessary.
Tile straight on to the ply - or no ply, then use cement board directly on to the floorboards.

The plumbing supply for the WC could be sorted better - perhaps go under the floor.

Tiling bath panels was something from the seventies - there are other options.

Read up on here for similar past posts and pics and info.

 

[longdogs]

Now that your bath is in position, seal it to the wall with some clear mastic filling any gaps. This a first seal and is just a back up to the main seal after tiling.

Work out where you plan to start and get a perfectly level line around the whole room, making sure the line meets up. If you have a door frame that goes up to the ceiling, this is not so critical but it pays to get it as accurate as possible.

The answer to fitting a new bathroom is to be five steps ahead in your head and keep checking that things will fit as you go along. Mark where any re-routed pipes need to appear, don't guess.

If fitting a shower valve allow for tile thickness and adhesive.

if fitting a bar shower invest in one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar-valve-wall-mount-11-fixing-kit-chrome-plated/58495

 

[EddieM]

Now that your bath is in position, seal it to the wall with some clear mastic filling any gaps. This a first seal and is just a back up to the main seal after tiling.

Work out where you plan to start and get a perfectly level line around the whole room, making sure the line meets up. If you have a door frame that goes up to the ceiling, this is not so critical but it pays to get it as accurate as possible.

The answer to fitting a new bathroom is to be five steps ahead in your head and keep checking that things will fit as you go along. Mark where any re-routed pipes need to appear, don't guess.

If fitting a shower valve allow for tile thickness and adhesive.

if fitting a bar shower invest in one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar-valve-wall-mount-11-fixing-kit-chrome-plated/58495[/QUOTE]

Don't forget to fill the bath full of water first before you seal