First ever stud wall does it look ok? Garage Conversion

[vallumlj]

Hold on I think I might have got it. So from the first picture I would take out the noggin and put in another upright approx 3 inches in. I then fix the plasterboard to this upright and the one in the corner is to support the frame. I then fix the block work stud up tight to the corner stud.

Would 3 inches be right if I am coming out 4 inches from the block wall?

2 inch stud then 3 inches so 5 inches out on the brick wall.

 

[vallumlj]

Woody I understand I want to keep the face flush how is the best way to do this. Should I not screw them to the wall because when I screw to the wall that's what puts them out. Would screwing to the sole plate and head plate be enough or do I need to fix to the wall.

 

[vallumlj]

As you can see in the picture there is a breeze block in the middle of the wall I was planning on using 4 x 2 and fixing the studs to the wall so the plasterboard then came out level with the breeze block. I was then hoping the plasterer could plaster straight across ?

Would I be better bringing the studs a little bit away from the wall so I could plasterboard over the top of the breeze block ?

I am just trying to think of the easiest way for me to do it. Should I just use 3x2 and just fit the plasterboard to the side of the block and get the plasterer to go round it? Sorry for all the questions i just want to get it right before I start again.

 

[^woody^]

No need to fix the studs to the wall behind ..... you only need to fix the top and base plates as the wall will be strong enough like that - that's how stud partitions generally are!

I think I answered your pier question in your other thread. Make the face of the timbers in line with the block pier and then just run the board across it

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes remove the noggins, then if you fit a stud 3 inch from the existing one, it will offer support to the stud on the bloke side and give you approx 1 inch to fix the plasterboard to, this only applies if you are fiting all the stud timbers up at once, if you board in to the corner before stuidding the block wall there is no need to do this as the board will be in place.

 

[vallumlj]

Thanks prenticeboyofderry and Woody for your help.

For the side wall where should i fix the head plate underneaf the roof wood or on the side of it ?

For the back wall is it worth me taking it down and starting again or should I just make the ones that are not flushed right?. I should of really use 3x2 on the back wall to give me some extra space. I suppose a extra inch is not the end of the world.

What Size insulation would you advise me to use ?

The back wall is single brick. The left Breeze wall is joined to a neighbours garage and the other wall is joined to the house.

Thanks Again.

 

[vallumlj]

bump

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

bump

hurt your head

 

[^woody^]

If that truss is tight on the pier and parallel to the wall, then you can just run the studs up and fix them to the side of it. Otherwise fix timber to the side of it.

For the stud already done, if there is no reasonably flush surface then you need to re-do it. If the noggins are just set back, but the studs otherwise in line, then I would leave it, but get yourself a tube or two of gripfill and put a few blobs on the set-back noggins so that when the boards go on, the board wont be pulled back

Insulation should be as thick as the timbers, and more correctly as thick as the void if there is additional space between the timbers and the wall behind