Fitting a elerctric cooker and hob

[EFLImpudence]

Have measured a 10mm² twin and earth cable.

The outside dimensions of the insulation is 17mm x 9mm.
Both conductors' insulation is 6mm in diameter.

It would be VERY difficult to terminate in a single back-box.

Is that what you have?

 

[diycooper]

Know the hob has been delivered I am now aware you cannot plug it in I was just looking for possible circuits on the presumption I could have plugged it in.

I measured the cable width with a tape, I am also familiar just by looking at a cable what size it is.

Going on the basis that I have to hard wire the 2 appliances, is it safe to wire a cooker isolator to the 10mm then run 2 fuse spares off for appliance ?

Thanks

Either A) a wind-up or B) .

If B) then you shouldn't be installing anything. I presume once you'd used your tape to get such a specific measurement, you used that measurement to calculate the CSA of each conductor?

Also, how would a >5kW cooker ever run off a fused spur, other than to replace the fuse with a nail?

The cooker is 3200 watts.

 

[diycooper]

Have measured a 10mm² twin and earth cable.

The outside dimensions of the insulation is 17mm x 9mm.
Both conductors' insulation is 6mm in diameter.

It would be VERY difficult to terminate in a single back-box.

Is that what you have?

Yes that is all I have at present.

Do you mean very difficult to terminate 2 appliances on this ?

 

[EFLImpudence]

No, I mean physically dressing and bending the wires (one cable in and one out) into the switch.
You can get two-gang cooker switches that fit vertically which give you more room.

Are you sure there is not another element at the bottom of the oven? It wouldn't be visible.

IF IF IF your hob and oven are as stated you could have 6mm² cable from the switch to a double cooker connection unit then two x 4mm² heat resistant cables, one to the hob and one to the oven.

Anyone disagree?[/b][/u]

 

[diycooper]

No there is not any other boxes it is just the fed cable to a fuse spare then to the oven.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The cooker is 3200 watts.

What cooker?

You've got an oven, and you've said:

it would seem the oven is going to be over 5kW.

and you've got a hob:

the hob has just been delivered ad that alone is 5440 watts.

But you also wrote this:

I need a circuit what can hold 5400 watt (hob) + 3200 (cooker) = 8600 watts.

What's happened to the oven in that calculation?

You aren't making it easy for people to advise you.....

But anyway - 3200W is also too large for an FCU.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No there is not any other boxes it is just the fed cable to a fuse spare then to the oven.

Where is the cooker connected?

 

[diycooper]

No there is not any other boxes it is just the fed cable to a fuse spare then to the oven.

Where is the cooker connected?

Sorry EFLImpudence The oven is connected currently using a fuse spare which is behind the oven. I have just read that this oven cannot be run like this, bu this is how it was installed.

 

[diycooper]

The cooker is 3200 watts.

What cooker?

You've got an oven, and you've said:

it would seem the oven is going to be over 5kW.

and you've got a hob:

the hob has just been delivered ad that alone is 5440 watts.

But you also wrote this:

I need a circuit what can hold 5400 watt (hob) + 3200 (cooker) = 8600 watts.

What's happened to the oven in that calculation?

You aren't making it easy for people to advise you.....

But anyway - 3200W is also too large for an FCU.

Yes I did say it would seem the oven is going to be over 5kw that was way back in the post before I found it is 3.2kw. As for the quote about the circuit that is what I need and I wrote cooker instead of oven.

Sorry few mistakes on my part,

 

[EFLImpudence]

Where does the 10mm² come out of the wall?

Have you got a cooker switch on the wall above the worktop?

This is what you will have to have to do it properly.(if my picture appears)

//media.diynot.com/145000_144975_30553_81151516_thumb.jpg

 

[EngStudent]

Where does the 10mm² come out of the wall?

Have you got a cooker switch on the wall above the worktop?

This is what you will have to have to do it properly.(if my picture appears)

//media.diynot.com/145000_144975_30553_81151516_thumb.jpg[/QUOTE]

Untitled

• EFLImpudence
• 28 Jan 2011
• 2

(Click)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

This is what you will have to have to do it properly.(if my picture appears)

And if it's OK to keep reducing cable sizes to 6mm² and 4mm² on a 32A breaker.

And if the oven manufacturer doesn't specify a 16A circuit.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, because it's on a 32A supply. I'm only using the 10mm² because that's what is there already.

I'm going on the information that we have been given, i.e. 3200W. I'm still not convinced that there won't be another element in the bottom of the oven.

When I gave the same information in text I did say "IF IF IF your oven and hob are as stated."

The OP didn't seem able to grasp the concept in writing so I thought a diagram might be easier to understand.

You said yourself he's not making it easy for anyone to give advice.

 

[riveralt]

The OP didn't seem able to grasp the concept in writing so I thought a diagram might be easier to understand.

You said yourself he's not making it easy for anyone to give advice.

The OP doesn't make sense or grasp concepts in many of his posts - He seems to be a landlord who is (not) a diyer - not sure I would want to rent one of his properties.

//www.diynot.com/search/forum-author.php?page=4&search=diycooper

 

[diycooper]

I checked the oven and it is only 3200 watts. For the record I am a landlord and a diyer. All my properties are safe and have safety certificates etc.

Sorry if I was not clear but I am competent with diy. Once I know the correct safe way I would do the job properly and would not do something unsafe in any way especially at somebody else's risk (tenant).