fitting a light switch flush with a Cupboard

[JohnW2]

but the plastic bits that hold the box to the plasrterboard are outside the box so the inside is free to house a switch. the screw lugs would intrude the same as a metal box

Yes, but it could only be done if they could find a way to put the 'plastic bits' at the top and bottom of the architrave box - which would be difficult, because there would then be little or no 'fixed' material left at top and bottom of the box! If they put the plastic bits (hence also the lugs, which are the problem) on the sides (as with all available plasterboard boxes), the two lugs would virtually meet in the middle.

Anyway, whether this is the reason or not, as I said it would seem that 'plasterboard' architrave boxes do not exist ...

Kind Regards, John

 

[Sureitsoff?]

i'm sure appleby could make an architrave box but the demand probably would not be high

 

[JohnW2]

i'm sure appleby could make an architrave box but the demand probably would not be high

Quite. There are few enough architrave switches used in the first place, so the market for such boxes would presumably be very small - and, for 'us', the ways of doing it using metal or 'surface-mounted' boxes are not all that demanding.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Alec_t]

If it were me I'd drill ~3mm holes through the side walls of the architrave box, thread coat-hanger wire through the holes and bend the wire ends into small loops for screwing the box to the back of the panel.

 

[JohnW2]

If it were me I'd drill ~3mm holes through the side walls of the architrave box, thread coat-hanger wire through the holes and bend the wire ends into small loops for screwing the box to the back of the panel....

Yep, there are many ways in which one could do it - although I'm not convinced that it would be too easy to end up with a 'wobble free' situation doing it your way, particularly if one wanted the edge of the box to be fairly flush with the outer surface of the panel. I think that small brackets would produce a much more assuredly rigid solution than a bit of coat hanger.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

How did Brunel manage?

 

[JohnW2]

How did Brunel manage?

Well, I feel sure that he would have made use of a good few metal brackets

Kind Regards, John

 

[Sureitsoff?]

one way to mount the switch could be to cut a hole in the cupboard front just big enough to accommodate the switch internals and the screw fixing points, then with long 3.5mm faceplate screws fit a surface box the "wrong" way inside the cupboard. the faceplate screws will enable the cupboard wall to be sandwiched between the switch plate and box. you could also screw the box to the cupboard by putting screws from the outside of the surface pattress to the cupboard.

 

[JohnW2]

one way to mount the switch could be to cut a hole in the cupboard front just big enough to accommodate the switch internals and the screw fixing points, then with long 3.5mm faceplate screws fit a surface box the "wrong" way inside the cupboard. the faceplate screws will enable the cupboard wall to be sandwiched between the switch plate and box. you could also screw the box to the cupboard by putting screws from the outside of the surface pattress to the cupboard.

I've seen that done (and have done it myself in the fairly distant past, using either a surface box or even a metal one, the former being either the 'wrong' or 'right' way around, depending upon the thickness of the wood. It's best if the hole one cuts is not tall enough to accommodate the faceplate screws - better for those screw to go through holes in the wood.

However, some (perhaps rather 'pedantic') people might say that, with such an approach, some or all of the sides of the 'enclosure' surrounding the switch will be made of wood, which they might say is 'not allowed'.

Having utilised various approaches over the years, my personal opinion is that a metal box and a couple of diddy bits of bent metal (''brackets') (bolted to box and screwed to back of wood) is probably the simplest solution.

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

I've also seen this done by making a hole big enough for the switch mechanism and 2 wood screws then either a piece of wood across the back to form an enclosure or nothing - particularly if the other side of the cupboard is against a wall.
Both approaches are wrong, don't do them!

 

[JohnW2]

I've also seen this done by making a hole big enough for the switch mechanism and 2 wood screws then either a piece of wood across the back to form an enclosure or nothing - particularly if the other side of the cupboard is against a wall. Both approaches are wrong, don't do them!

Indeed - I've seen a good few examples of that - mainly with the "nothing" option (i.e. the screws just into plasterboard, with no wood behind) - but, as you say, that's a definite no-no when the back of the switch (hence 'live parts') is accessible within the cupboard.

In terms of common sense (but not regs), it is bit different if the back of the switch (or other accessory), hence 'live parts', is not 'accessible'. When I moved into my present house, a good few of the light switches were attached to lath/plaster walls in that fashion, and many of the sockets were attached in a similar fashion to (enormous, Victorian, and about 12" x 3", but 'hollow') skirting boards. For whatever reason (my 'conscience'?) I eventually 'regularised' most, if not all, of them - but, given that no live parts were accessible, I was actually perfectly comfortable with 'how they had been'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Tigercubrider]

Architrave box back screwed to a bit of sheet material that's a bit bigger than the dimensions of the back, and effectively encased in wood on the sides.
If necessary allow the architrave box to protrude into the cupboard wall thickness.
You could use gripfill or something to create the wooden case.
Fit a bit of angled metal /bracket to secure inside the cupboard.

If you can drill 4 holes in the right place you can cut the switch slot with a pad saw

 

[JohnW2]

Architrave box back screwed to a bit of sheet material that's a bit bigger than the dimensions of the back, and effectively encased in wood on the sides. If necessary allow the architrave box to protrude into the cupboard wall thickness.
You could use gripfill or something to create the wooden case. Fit a bit of angled metal /bracket to secure inside the cupboard.

Yet another possibility - cat's can be skinned in very many ways!

However, as I said, if one is going to use "a bit of angled metal /bracket" one might as well bolt those directly to a metal back box (which is now my preferred method), without the need for any 'sheet material'.

Kind Regards, John