Fitting isolation valves in rigid tight pipes

I've never seen a combi boiler without isolation valves.
I don't do oil so not familiar with these boilers, but logic would dictate some isolation valves would be a good idea
 
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Thanks folks, the boiler is a Worcester Bosch Heatslave 26/32 oil fired combi.

The service manual states:

9.7 It is strongly recommended that isolating valves are fitted to the central heating flow and return pipes. This will allow the boiler and Heatslave tank to be drained for service work without having to drain down the whole central heating circuit.

I can't see any isolating valves on the pipework.

DP - I've had a look for lever valves with one long end, but haven't found any, got a link?

Next problem though is that the pipes are pretty close to each other and run up a wall. I can't get my pipe cutter round them. Is there a way to cut these pipes without wrecking them?
 
Next problem though is that the pipes are pretty close to each other and run up a wall. I can't get my pipe cutter round them. Is there a way to cut these pipes without wrecking them?

Use a dremel and cutting wheel or an angle grinder with a 1mm cutting blade or the trusty hacksaw if enough space behind.
 
That's exactly the same with my Heatslave.....even if I could get the pipe slice in, there's no room for spanner twiddling anyway :(
John :)
 
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Why is it that after an initial flurry of opinion and suggestions, threads on this forum just fizzle out? I don't want to start a new thread, but I want to know if anyone knows of a lever valve like DP mentioned, i.e. one long end or slippable. I bought 2 of the Peglers from screwfix, but they have stops in the ends and both ends are the same length. Happy to fit using a slip coupler, but would rather keep it simple.
 
Probably because you have received all the suggestions that can be offered?? DP has mentioned something specific that only he may be able to advise upon therefore if you contact him directly he may be able to advise.

Either that or make a journey to a plumbing merchants (not one of the sheds) and do some hands on investigation of different valves?
 
What you also have to remember is that those of us who do this for a living do not deliberate over possible solutions/scenarios etc etc... We don't have time to do that, we have to adapt and overcome ;)
 
It sounds like its cutting time....!
Consider cutting out a length of pipe equivalent to the size required by the valve (bit of careful measuring there) and cut that length out of the 22mm pipe, plus maybe 2mm.
Then, cut the pipe further along where its convenient to install the slip coupling.
Theoretically, the pipe length should be correct, with the gap for the slip coupling being 2mm.
Unfortunately on my Heatslave there just isn't any room to get in, and no straight lengths of pipe anyway :eek: so I'll tackle that one when or if I need to.
I make my own slip couplings by turning a standard coupling in a lathe, and removing the lip with a boring bar.....can't say I've ever seen them on the shelf.
Hope all goes well......!
John :)
 
Why is it that after an initial flurry of opinion and suggestions, threads on this forum just fizzle out? I don't want to start a new thread, but I want to know if anyone knows of a lever valve like DP mentioned, i.e. one long end or slippable. I bought 2 of the Peglers from screwfix, but they have stops in the ends and both ends are the same length. Happy to fit using a slip coupler, but would rather keep it simple.

What an ungrateful response. Screwfix is not a plumbers' merchant which is why you have unsuitable valves.. Short of coming around and doing the job for you I cannot see what else can be done to help you.
 
Be thankful that Worcester do not fit them, they would only leak if used11
 

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