Fitting Spirotech MagnaBooster MB3 DIY

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DSC01256.JPG DSC01257.JPG DSC01258.JPG DSC01259.JPG System.jpg image1.JPG Pipes2.jpg Hello.


I want to fit a Magnabooster MB3 to my central heating/hot water system.

I believe (but i'm not sure) it's a open vented system and there is a pump in the airing cupboard. It's very similar to the system shown in Diagram.


It has a hot water tank in the airing cupboard upstairs.

There are 2 expansion/header tanks in the loft - containing cold water.


The boiler is downstairs and the gap between the top of the boiler and the ceiling is about 155mm, so I guess the Magnabooster won't fit there.


Boiler is Potterton Prima F (not sure which model)


  1. Can't see where the Magnabooster would be fitted. Any ideas?

  2. Is it sufficient just to put PTF tape on the threads of the Magnabooster to make it water tight.

  3. Which is the Return pipe for the boiler?

  4. I guess I have to drain all the water out of the system from one of the radiators downstairs.

    How do I stop the header/expansion tank feeding more water into the system?

  5. After fitting the magnabooster, when I fill up the system with water will there be airlcoks in the system and how do I bleed the air out?

  6. Obviously, need to put rust inhibitor when filling back up.

Any tips/pointers etc.

Anything to watch out for?


Anyone fitted one of these?



Thanks
 

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Yes, I have.

From the look of your layout, and age of boiler, I wouldn't bother.

It should go on the return to the boiler and there isn't really anywhere you could fit it without adding new pipework, either downstairs or in airing cupboard, from what I can see.
 
Turn boiler on and feel which pipe gets hot first and which other later. It does look tight in both places.
Yes, I tried feeling the pipes, but to my surprise they both heated up at the same time and I couldn't be sure which one heated up first.
I will have to give it another go.
Any Potterton Prima F experts on here?........

Yes, it is tight. I guess it would have to go in the airing cupboard. Will probably have to get the floor boards up.
Not sure which pipe to cut into thou........any ideas?

Thks
 
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In your first airing cupboard picture, it is likely, but not certain, that the pipe running across the front of the base of the cylinder and going into the bottom of the pump is the flow, and the pipe behind it is the return. If you can see the arrow on the body of the pump, then if it is pointing upwards then the pipe going into the bottom is the flow. If the arrow points downwards then it will be the reverse.

To be sure, what I would do is:

a. Close the gate valve behind the pump, counting the number of 1/4 turns required to close it. This looks like a manual bypass valve which connects to the return.
b. Turn the hot water cylinder thermostat down to its lowest level, noting its current setting. This should stop the water circulating fast through the cylinder coil.
c. Turn the central heating room thermostat (if any) up to maximum.
d. Turn any thermostatic radiator valves up to maximum heat.
e. Run the system and determine which of the two pipes running across the front of the cylinder at its base heats up first.
f. Restore gate valve, cylinder, room and radiator thermostats to their previous settings.

The pipe which heats up second is the return.

If it's the one I think it is, I think you will have to put a loop in the return pipe work where it comes out of the floor on the right hand side of the airing cupboard, bringing the pipe forward and up, attach the filter then run pipework up and back from the filter then down to join the existing return pipe. You'll need to create enough vertical space to get the magnet off and to get a hose and / or pan under the waste outlet for cleaning.

Given the amount of work, I tend to agree with Simond that its probably not worth doing, particularly for a boiler of that age.
 
Yes, I have.

From the look of your layout, and age of boiler, I wouldn't bother.

It should go on the return to the boiler and there isn't really anywhere you could fit it without adding new pipework, either downstairs or in airing cupboard, from what I can see.
Everything on the system works ok.
 
Yes, I have.

From the look of your layout, and age of boiler, I wouldn't bother.

It should go on the return to the boiler and there isn't really anywhere you could fit it without adding new pipework, either downstairs or in airing cupboard, from what I can see.
Everything on the system works ok.

If this is the case, check there's enough inhibitor in the system and leave it. What colour is the water in the F&E tank in the loft?
 
The component shown with the RED arrow shown in photo PIPES2. What is it, what is it for, and what does it do?
thanks
 
Yes, I have.

From the look of your layout, and age of boiler, I wouldn't bother.

It should go on the return to the boiler and there isn't really anywhere you could fit it without adding new pipework, either downstairs or in airing cupboard, from what I can see.
Everything on the system works ok.

If this is the case, check there's enough inhibitor in the system and leave it. What colour is the water in the F&E tank in the loft?
I would have just left it, but my heating cover people say I have to get the MB3 fitted.
 
Its a manual air vent. Open very slowly and carefully with a screwdriver. Should let trapped air out. When water follows, tighten up again. Don't take the screw all the way out - you'll never get it back in and water will go all over the place.
 
Additional photo with red arrow has magically appeared!
 

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