Fixing a bluetooth speaker for the summer

[Gaogier]

Hello

I have a really good, but unfortunately semi broken speaker. I can't remember the details of the make or model, but its a really good sound speaker.

The problems is, I somehow broke the micro USB port. So, the only way to charge the speaker, is to have the cable in a certain position making it hard to charge without constant checking. The second problem is the battery isn't long lasting anymore, and the third problem is that I dropped it, and apart of the case broke of, (the charging and the 3.5mm and usb inputs are) This broke by the column screw brackets, I have used plastic glue, and a mini 3D pen and reinforced the columns back on, so this is something I have to be aware of, I can't keep taking it apart to fix the charging port, you see, the micro usb is not connected to the circuit board, although it is still making contact when put together.

So, my thinking, if at all possible I am not sure if they will fit the same, but was to upgrade the port, with a better USB-C charging port, I was/am also planning to get a better battery for the speaker, if I can find any information on the battery, would I be able to add a bigger compatible battery to the speaker. The last idea I have, is to create new screw ankers and holes so that this wont break again if dropped. (Yes I drop this very often, and I have repaired the screw anker polls back about 4 times so far, using superglue, plastic glue, plastic glue with 3d melted filament around the base.

I don't know if its the chips inside that restrict upgrading the mirco usb to usb c, as I believe this is the case with HDMI ports, I can't upgrade a HDMI 2.0 port to a HDMI 2.1 port... correct in thinking this?

I got this speaker a few years ago, the speaker would last 12 hours and run from full to completely empty due to my iPhone (I think...) and now my iPhone shows that its only 75% give or take when been on charge for 24 hours, and will turn off when battery goes down to some 30%, I can turn it back on in this stage and able to listen to music for about 3-4 mins before turning off, I can then repeat this maybe 2-4 additional times.

 

[Lucid]

You're partly correct that the chips inside mean that it won't be possible to upgrade the USB port to USB-C. There are also far more connections in a USB-C port, and they won't match what's on the circuit board where the current micro USB port connects.

The reason the speaker's battery doesn't last very long could simply be that it has reached a high number of charge/discharge cycles and is due for replacement. Another factor is memory effect.

The type of chemistry affects how a battery should be used. When we used NiCad rechargeables, they worked best when fully flattened in a device and then recharged completely. If they were put back on charge when only partially used then it created a sort of brick wall effect (the memory effect) where the battery would appear to have a much smaller charge capacity. Topping up on NiCads was a bad idea.

Newer chemistry types such as Li-ion (lithium ion) behave differently. Here it's almost the polar opposite of a NiCad. Li-ion batteries give better performance if you avoid discharging more than 50% and the prefer to be topped up but not to 100%. NiMH (Nickel-metal Hydride) are different again. Understanding the battery chemistry, and how the battery should be recharged, will help prolong the service life. It's also important to make sure that the correct type of charger is used with each chemistry type.

Replace the battery with a like for like unit. Change the way you use the speaker to make sure that the battery isn't damaged by over-discharge or the wrong type of charging pattern. e.g. don't leave NiMH batteries on charge for more than 20 hours. Also remember that fast charging batteries creates a lot of heat, and that's a good way of shortening the battery's life.

 

[Gaogier]

I have seen videos of people upgrading the usb port, but to me it is a complete hack and surely the chip controlling that port won’t work well with the usb-c as it wasn’t programmed too in the beginning.

somehow the battery was perfect until I took it away on holiday via aircraft and somehow the battery hasn’t worked correctly since. I have looked at replacement for equivalent speaker specs we are looking at around the £100 mark… so if I can fix it and make it last another 4-5 years I would be happy.

i am 100% sure I need to replace the micro usb connector, just double checking that it does use the same connectors from a few years ago to now? It shouldn’t affect the chip right?

regarding the battery, is the information printed on the battery? Or do I need to find make/model of it somehow?

 

[Lucid]

When you said you wanted to upgrade the USB port, I had visions of you expecting app the speed and voltage benefits of USB-C simply by changing the physical connector. Reading your most recent reply though causes me to change my view on what I think you're looking for, but I still believe that upgrading it is a waste of time and effort.

I've seen a couple of those videos. There are some where the socket has been changed to make it compatible with one charger - a USB-C type - but they've had to restrict the voltage that the charger can deliver down to around 5V. That's no different from the older USB standard that the device (and the battery charging!) was designed for. So where's the benefit?

To me at least I see little advantage in having just one charger for everything unless someone is on the move all the time. Even then, it puts all the charging eggs in one basket. What happens if the single charger breaks or gets lost?

Maybe my thinking is at odds with the people who would do this sort of thing, or there's some other advantage that isn't apparent to me, but I just see replacing a mini-USB with a USB-C and then hobbling the charge rate down to mini-USB levels as a waste of time and money. But then again, folk do these things (and post videos on YouTube) because 'it's cool', so what do I know?

Regarding the batteries, I'd go straight for the batteries already fitted to see if there's anything on them. You're going to need the dimensions anyhow so you might as well dive straight in. If there's nothing on the batteries then try the user manual or service manual if you can find one online. Bear in mind that the batteries could be made up into a pack, so you might have to consider replacing the individual cells.

 

[Gaogier]

Hello

I have taken the speaker apart once more, and I can't access the battery as its somehow built into another section of the speaker that I can't open without fully breaking the speaker. I do however know that the battery is a 3.7v 1800mah with a JST Connector 2 pin.

So, its a very poor picture, I couldn't go upstairs yesterday, pain was bad and I passed out before I even opened this page to reply to you, otherwise I would of gotten a picture of my microscope that I use to check where there are breaks on my MacBook Pro (mid 2009) but not gotten far with that yet. Anyway, I took a picture from my phone, but it wouldn't focus on the connector.

Do you think that I can get away with repairing this or do I need to replace with a new one? Are the pins not the anker post, soldered on, or is it just the anker pins - that is if that is the anker pin, I am not sure, I have never removed or replaced any chip or connector before, So I am completely open to suggestions.
I also just want to say that when the connector is pushed back down the speaker does charge again. There is also space in the chip board controls for a new battery if needed. If I can get it to charge correctly, Then it should allow power charging and play right? I am unsure on this as I can't remember if that worked before, I want to say yes...