Fixing timber to metal gates

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Fair enough. A lot depends on how you have braced and the welding quality.
3mm wall should be okay for this weight anyway, if you do go for another hinge bring it a 1/3 down from the top one.
 
Fair enough. A lot depends on how you have braced and the welding quality.
3mm wall should be okay for this weight anyway, if you do go for another hinge bring it a 1/3 down from the top one.

Each hinge is on a plate for 2 reason, 1 to spread the load and 2/ The way the gate folds and the way I have welded the hinges so that there won't be any gaps when closed, a plate is needed to make a gap for the timber.

As for my welding, time will tell!
 
A common way to have the gates closing square is to fit off square when opened.
As you seem to have done.
Many gate automation makers say to use that method.
Rather have them all square but as sometimes things dictate the methods used.
 
A common way to have the gates closing square is to fit off square when opened.
As you seem to have done.
Many gate automation makers say to use that method.
Rather have them all square but as sometimes things dictate the methods used.

I don't know what you mean by off square. View media item 44108 This what I have done.
 
I know what you meant, so there were no gaps at the hinges.
Other types are made for that method, using the adjustable ones was a little bit of a waste. But they are stronger granted.

How do the gates meet? Does one "push" against the other for better locking.
And have you considered the "Wind", have seen hinges ripped off on metal gates with close boarding.
The metal wall shredded. Admittedly it was on a hill in Kent and we advised against the close boarding, but they did and it took off the gate motors and hinges.

I assume these are not motorised gates as nothing has been mentioned.n
You do realise the laws on these have changed in recent times and there are many safety features to be aware of.
Even with non motorised a way of stopping "Crush" areas should be used. A gate caught in the wind will cause a lot of damage.

This was only added as a bit of advice, not a criticism of the installation.
 
I know what you meant, so there were no gaps at the hinges.
Other types are made for that method, using the adjustable ones was a little bit of a waste. But they are stronger granted.

How do the gates meet? Does one "push" against the other for better locking.
And have you considered the "Wind", have seen hinges ripped off on metal gates with close boarding.
The metal wall shredded. Admittedly it was on a hill in Kent and we advised against the close boarding, but they did and it took off the gate motors and hinges.

I assume these are not motorised gates as nothing has been mentioned.n
You do realise the laws on these have changed in recent times and there are many safety features to be aware of.
Even with non motorised a way of stopping "Crush" areas should be used. A gate caught in the wind will cause a lot of damage.

This was only added as a bit of advice, not a criticism of the installation.

The post hinges are screw type, as the top link I sent before.

Not motorized.

I did wonder about wind although it's fairly sheltered, so I'll have to monitor them. Another thing to worry about!

There are 4X floor bolts, and the middle panel is a personnel gate, which clicks shut to a top, and locks.
 
3 MONTHS LATER

The gates work ok, but are a bit scary in the wind, especially as they can open outwards into a lane.

Some of the bolts have snapped. (Size 8 coated steel) I think it is because of the timber swelling. I will monitor them, and perhaps change to larges screws, if it keeps happening.

A possibility is, when drilling, is first drill through the wood and into the steel for the screw, then drill out the wood a little more for swelling.

Cheers, Camerart.
 
5 months later.

Some more bottom screws sheared off, so I removed all of the bottom ones, drilled and tapped 6mm, and fitted threaded screws.

That should hold it!!
 

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