Floating oak mantle

[Deleted member 174758]

This cleat principle is the best option.

A small cleat can be made to self level and align.

And still needs to be recessed into the back of the mantel. Are you aware that the OP possibly doesn't possess an router? Also, if the split battens are in timber you still need to get the two pieces on the wall straight to each other AND there is a limit to how short you can make them if you use the most obvious material (softwood). I also notice you haven't detailed how you'd achieve this other than repeating "French cleats" mantra. Details of how to do this are required, methinks

 

[^woody^]

Perhaps but unless the shelf is super thick there remains the risk of someone accidentally knocking it off.

Super thick like the OPs 5" you mean?

The design of the cleat, plus the tightness against the wall and our old friend gravity, ensure that it won't get knocked off.

 

[^woody^]

Are you aware that the OP possibly doesn't possess an router

Or a chisel?

Or a dentist's drill for when they have tooth ache, or a ladder for even they have a roof leak, or a plane for when they have a holiday ..... in which case what does one do?

 

[opps]

Super thick like the OPs 5" you mean?

The design of the cleat, plus the tightness against the wall and our old friend gravity, ensure that our won't get knocked off.

That is only 2.5" either way (assuming that the difference is split equally). It wouldn't take a lot of force to accidentally knock the farthest point of the shelf upwards.

Sorry, I just don't think it would as secure a a headboard. I could be wrong though.

 

[^woody^]

I could be wrong though

You are. Physics applies.

It's not like a cup of tea on the mantle that can be knocked over.

This is wedged. One end can't be knocked as the other end prevents it. It will have to be lifted, as one, upwards and outwards. That discounts a knock.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Or a chisel?

To make two identical flat bottomed recesses in the back of an oak mantle?

Cleats work well enough when they are on the backs of tall flat objects like wall panelling or headboards providing they don't need to be recessed into the backs of the items, and where you can get two or three cleats across the back over the height, or at the very least a cleat at the top and an identical cleat fixed to the wall at the bottom. They don't work well when you need to recess them (which is just downright awkward) or where the object to be hung is on a single cleat. When using multiple cleats they are sensitive to being in the same plane (something you haven't pointed out, but which needs addressing). But you'd expect a joiner to object to corner cutting which stands more chance of failure than success, wouldn't you?

 

[^woody^]

Well I've done shelves, mantles and features with rods, cleats, brackets, hidden timber you name it and for the OPs purpose cleats will be the easiest and best result long term.

BTW, what is securing this mantle to these rods again?