Floor Foam insulation kit for cabin

[Fender Stratoplaster]

Hello,

I have a garden log cabin with interlocking timbers - the floor and roof were supplied with insulation I was told but still losing a lot of heat from cold air rising from the flooring.

Currently inside the cabin, the flooring appears to be hard wood and we have put a load of foam interlocking panels across the floor on top of that

Would the insulation kit below be a good solution to help prevent the cold from rising up through the cabin and are there any considerations to think of regarding moisture build up etc.?

EcoTec Floor-Foam Insulation Kit - Concrete Floor Insulation

Effortless insulation for wooden and concrete floors insulation with our EcoTec Floor-Foam Insulation Kit. Simplify installation for an efficient solution.

www.ecohome-insulation.com

If I get this and then put the foam panels back on top will that be suitable or does it need a membrane or anything?

Hoping it will improve the thermal efficiency of the cabin and keep cold draughts out

 

[Why Not Indeed]

Is it heated? Insulating an unheated building is not going to make a lot of difference. Sealing gaps to keep out draughts will be a more effective use of your time.
As for a membrane - what's the subfloor made of and what's it sitting on?

 

[Fender Stratoplaster]

Is it heated? Insulating an unheated building is not going to make a lot of difference. Sealing gaps to keep out draughts will be a more effective use of your time.
As for a membrane - what's the subfloor made of and what's it sitting on?

It's heated by 2 wall mounted Princess and Devola electric heaters which are sending heat up into the roof not outwards, so it gets warm pretty quickly but there is always a cool draft around your feet and the heat will dissipate fairly soon after the radiators go off

Its got 45mm walls and I think the wood-floored base is sat on top of a plastic grid base which is in contact with the floor/shingle/dirt - the company who supplied it said there is floor insulation included but I'm not sure what

From the website:

1. Recycled Plastic Posts are used on all our cabin bases which won’t rot over time like timber posts used by many cabin suppliers!
2. A Damp Proof membrane is fitted across the base work framework.
3. Fast Drying postfix enables the cabin construction to start 30 minutes after the base work is completed.

 

[jj4091]

Personally I would think you are fighting a losing battle. As hot air rises it has to suck in cold air from lower down, hence the cool draft and with such thin walls you are never going to get it to stay comfortably warm.

 

[Fender Stratoplaster]

Personally I would think you are fighting a losing battle. As hot air rises it has to suck in cold air from lower down, hence the cool draft and with such thin walls you are never going to get it to stay comfortably warm.

Damn. I was hoping it might of done something at least.

The nature of the cabin walls makes it difficult to put any permanent insulation fixing on because of the flex and movement of the walls. I'm all out of ideas now

 

[Why Not Indeed]

We're not saying abandon all hope Just set your expectations - it's not going to be comfortable like a habitable building, unless it's built to the same standards.
Reducing draughts is always worthwhile, unless you're doing something that introduces a lot of moisture in the space [exercise, cooking, paraffin heaters, etc] and you need air flow.
How you heat it will make a difference to the comfort. As it sounds like you've got an electricity supply in there, you could consider IR heating. They heat people/objects rather than the air [Some real-world comments in this thread about how they work: https://www.speakev.com/threads/anyone-looked-into-infrared-heating.188676/ ]
If the cabin is isolated from the ground by a plastic structure then I don't think a DPM would be required - there's no moisture going to come up through the floor, right?