Flooring query

[antmoss3]

Hi all

Hoping someone can assist...

I have a lounge that is currently wooden floorboards & I need to add insulation, raise floor level and create floating floor for LVT to be fitted.

Builder has suggested the following:
DPC (black membrane)
40mm Celotex
22mm Chipboard
5.5mm Ply
LVT finish

I am just wondering, in terms of fixings, how would I go about fixing the chipboard to the celotex insulation (should this be glued) and how would I then fix the ply to the chipboard (would my best bet be 15 or 20mm staples)?

Thanks in advance for any guidance

 

[blup]

If its a floating floor make sure the celotex is laid completely flat and its self weight should suffice with the chipboard above. Thin ply should be glued and nailed to let it set.

 

[antmoss3]

If its a floating floor make sure the celotex is laid completely flat and its self weight should suffice with the chipboard above. Thin ply should be glued and nailed to let it set.

Thanks for the response.

Is that glue and nail the the ply to the chipboard or do you mean glue ply joints and then nail to the chipboard?

 

[blup]

Thanks for the response.

Is that glue and nail the the ply to the chipboard or do you mean glue ply joints and then nail to the chipboard?

Thin ply needs to be completely glued to the chipboard, the nails will keep it in place as it dries, a nail gun is probably quickest. Thin square edged ply can't effectively be glued together.

 

[antmoss3]

Thin ply needs to be completely glued to the chipboard, the nails will keep it in place as it dries, a nail gun is probably quickest. Thin square edged ply can't effectively be glued together.

Thank you. I assume standard wood glue is fine for this?

 

[blup]

Would probably use pva, this vid is a helpful overview.

 

[JohnD]

This is a concrete subfloor you're working on?

 

[antmoss3]

This is a concrete subfloor you're working on?

Hi no its a suspended timber floor

 

[mikeey84]

One thing that I was recommended to do, to prevent the ply joints showing through lvt/vinyl was to leave a couple of mm gap, and use 2 part wood filler to fill them, and sand it flat.

Means you won't see the pattern of the ply, and any slight thickness differences between the ply won't show through

 

[antmoss3]

One thing that I was recommended to do, to prevent the ply joints showing through lvt/vinyl was to leave a couple of mm gap, and use 2 part wood filler to fill them, and sand it flat.

Means you won't see the pattern of the ply, and any slight thickness differences between the ply won't show through

Thanks for the advice. Any particular 2 part wood filler you would recommend?

 

[JohnD]

I'm puzzled by your plan.

You are adding 70mm to the thickness of the floor. Is this on top of the existing floor?

Won't it create a step, when you go through the doorway? And you will have to cut 70mm off the bottom of the doors?

Insulation of a suspended wooden floor is usually placed between the joists, leaving the finished floor level unchanged.

 

[mikeey84]

I just used whatever was cheapest on Amazon at the time. I think it was mahogany everbuild

 

[antmoss3]

I'm puzzled by your plan.

You are adding 70mm to the thickness of the floor. Is this on top of the existing floor?

Won't it create a step, when you go through the doorway? And you will have to cut 70mm off the bottom of the doors?

Insulation of a suspended wooden floor is usually placed between the joists, leaving the finished floor level unchanged.

Hi - it's to bring the lounge level with the kitchen/diner floor height. The kitchen is part of a newer extension and concrete. There won't be a step as a new door is going in / no need to cut 70mm off of any doors.