Floppy kitchen cabinet

[papeman1]

Hi folks, just moved into our first ever house, so am a bit of a DIY novice. This is question 3 of 3 across 3 different forums, so any help you can give will be appreciated!

We have just had the boiler replaced in our kitchen (£££!), and as the new one has been mounted on a different wall, it has become apparent that the old one was holding the side of the kitchen cabinet tight to the wall. As a result, I now have two floppy doors which are over lapping another taller one, meaning that we can't get everything closed without a bit of force. How can I go about fixing the side of the cabinet tight to the wall so that everything closes flush again?

Photos attached.

Chris

 

[DaveHerns]

Can't you screw the remains of the side of the cabinet to the wall ?

 

[papeman1]

Can't you screw the remains of the side of the cabinet to the wall ?

I wondered if it was a simple as that....! Any specific screws to use?

 

[Brizlix]

I'd use some of those hammer in fixings you can get. then you can just drill through the inside of the cupboard and into the wall without having to take the cupboard out to fit a wallplug. Tap the fixing in and screw it up tight. this kind of fixing:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p9...=96959&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydWLyuv81QIVmFcNCh3i

 

[papeman1]

I'd use some of those hammer in fixings you can get. then you can just drill through the inside of the cupboard and into the wall without having to take the cupboard out to fit a wallplug. Tap the fixing in and screw it up tight. this kind of fixing:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p9...=96959&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydWLyuv81QIVmFcNCh3i

Most excellent, thanks

 

[Doggit]

To be honest, those type of fixings are more designed to hold things in place (I know, it sound daft) but in this case, there might need to be a bit of adjustments as well. You can drill through the cabinet side, cut off the lip of a rawlplug, and then tap it through with the screw, then screw the screw in to place. Now if the cupboard shouldn't be flat against the wall, then you need to put some spacers in between it and the wall, so you may need to take the door off, then use this type of spacer to hold it out from the wall. Finally, you may need to adjust the hinges shown in picture 3, to adjust the door alignment. There'll be a grub screw that moves the door backards or forwards.

 

[papeman1]

To be honest, those type of fixings are more designed to hold things in place (I know, it sound daft) but in this case, there might need to be a bit of adjustments as well. You can drill through the cabinet side, cut off the lip of a rawlplug, and then tap it through with the screw, then screw the screw in to place. Now if the cupboard shouldn't be flat against the wall, then you need to put some spacers in between it and the wall, so you may need to take the door off, then use this type of spacer to hold it out from the wall. Finally, you may need to adjust the hinges shown in picture 3, to adjust the door alignment. There'll be a grub screw that moves the door backards or forwards.

Pretty sure these are what I'm needing, have to secure the right hand side of the cupboard to the wall. The top and bottom of it are already secured, but the removal of the boiler has resulted in the middle part becoming loose

 

[Doggit]

make sure you fix the cabinet near the hinges, and you should be fine. Do you have a spirit level to make sure it's level top to bottom.

 

[papeman1]

Yep, will hopefully all be good. To toolstation I go....

 

[papeman1]

Just one more thought on this....I'm attaching the cabinet to a plasterboard extension rather than a solid brick wall- does that make a difference?

 

[Doggit]

How solid and stable is the plasterboard. How would you feel about using gripfil to fix the panel in plac, because it's not going to be so easy getting a plasterboard plug though the cabinet panel without removing it.

 

[papeman1]

How solid and stable is the plasterboard. How would you feel about using gripfil to fix the panel in plac, because it's not going to be so easy getting a plasterboard plug though the cabinet panel without removing it.

It's the outside wall of the extension, pretty solid. The problem I'd have thought with using adhesive would be getting it tight enough to the wall to "pull" the cabinet tight

 

[Doggit]

Sorry, I possibly misunderstood you. I had the impression that it was a plasterboard wall, but is it a sold wall that's been dot and dabbed. If it is, then just use a longer rawlplug (or even 2) with a long screw to get into the brickwork.