Flue Exit - Height From Ground

thanks for info (didn't think you were a miner really :LOL: )

have just looked at Alpha's site and would suggest the following solution:

use two 45 deg elbows part no. 6.2001050 to bring flue through wall and so give the required lift you need for flue exit and then fit the plume kit for the exhaust gases.
 
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Thats a very bad location!

As you know the regs state that the terminal has to be 300mm above the ground. That's for the outlet for the flues gas AND the air inlit.

If it's below 300mm the unsafe situation say NCS. However they also say if there is a risk of PoC re-entering the property then it's AR. Looking at the picture, I'd be doing a lot of FGA checks and I'd be leaning towards AR.

Using a plume management kit normally does not allow you to circumvent the requirements for the location of the terminal as you can't move the air inlet. The dangers arising from a partially blocked air inlit are just as real i.e. excess CO been producded due to incomplete combustion.

However Worcester have changed their guidelines in the last few weeks so you can deliberately use a plume management kit to get out of awkward situations. You have to ensure then that the air inlet is kept clear of stuff like leaves during the autumn and snow during the winter etc.

Is there no way of getting an extra 10cms?. How about having a 45 degree elbow on the other side of the wall and going through the wall at an angle?

And don't forget your flue guard!!!.

Thanks for this info. The outlet is already exiting at 45 degrees and the flue more or less touches the underside of the ground floor, hence no room to move.

Plume management will be fitted, floor under the air intake/flue exit, can be dropped by 10cm. I am hoping that this gets us close enough to an appropriate installation.
 
thanks for info (didn't think you were a miner really :LOL: )

have just looked at Alpha's site and would suggest the following solution:

use two 45 deg elbows part no. 6.2001050 to bring flue through wall and so give the required lift you need for flue exit and then fit the plume kit for the exhaust gases.

Thanks, but as above, already using 45 degree exits. I am trying to do anything that will avoid the need to dig into the ground floor and create a small box for the extra 10cm needed.
 
Hi
Boxing in the flue externally is actually an option. Its not an ideal situation and something I would try to avoid, but surprisingly quite a few manufacturers will approve this. Ideally the boxing should be reasonably insulated and removable for inspection.
Personally I would avoid this idea but have come across this scenario used as a solution where a house builder flued 57 ideal classics into a covered passageway. The solution they come up with, with manufacturers consent was to extend the flue to the end of the passageway and box it.
I still NCS them all cos they was too close to corner :D
 
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Looking at the picture, I'd be doing a lot of FGA checks and I'd be leaning towards AR.

Leaning towards AR?
That situation deserves a warning notice, no 2 ways about it.
That installation is unsafe. When you see something like that, you know you are going to find problems. I would not be at all surprised if that would qualify as ID if you went nit-picking.
 
Ideally the boxing should be reasonably insulated and removable for inspection.
Personally I would avoid this idea but have come across this scenario used as a solution where a house builder flued 57 ideal classics into a covered passageway. The solution they come up with, with manufacturers consent was to extend the flue to the end of the passageway and box it.
I still NCS them all cos they was too close to corner :D

That is slightly different from the picture I had in mind of boxing in. :D
Of course you NCS an ideal; they are not up to any standards, let alone current.
 
Whoa guys...

Too much jargon and conflicting with your own advice here.

NCS?
FGA?
AR?

Simple question, will dropping the concrete floor and adding a plume kit solve the problems or not?

If not, what is the next best solution?

Thanks,

Charles.
 
Simple answer: get a quality installer and let him sort it out.
Way too many factors to solve this from behind a keyboard.
 
Looking at the picture, I'd be doing a lot of FGA checks and I'd be leaning towards AR.

Leaning towards AR?
That situation deserves a warning notice, no 2 ways about it.
That installation is unsafe. When you see something like that, you know you are going to find problems. I would not be at all surprised if that would qualify as ID if you went nit-picking.

Well it took you long enough to get off the fence!!!
 
What is the floor made of between cellar and room above and what is if anything fitted directly above boiler on that floor
 
probably a reason, but can you not

A raise the boiler by 10 cm
b. lower it by enough to get a straight section in before the elbows through the wall?
 
If I were installing this boiler we would look at a brick enclosure outside to allow the internal flue to run outside, but inside, as suggested.

The alternative is a Keston, but they are pony and trap.

The PRV will need to discharge into a steel tank below ground.

If you dig a well there is still a danger of leaves or snow compromising the boiler inlet, which will be difficult to justify to a Gas Safe inspector.
 

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