Ford taunus not starting

[johnad]

I hope someone on hear can help me
I posted last year about my river boat with a Ford taunus engine
With some helpful advice on hear the boat is now done and the engine has been running like a dream
Well until now ...
I recently went out on a trip on the river with no problems whatsoever
After about 3 hours I tried to start the engine again but nothing I have been checking everything I know how to do I have a spark. I have fuel it cranks as it should but nothing it will not even fire
I have put quick start in the air intake and fuel in the air intake but still nothing
I had the rocker cover off and the rockers are all moving as they should
Now im at a standstill so any advice would be appreciated
Now and then I do hear a little pop from the carb but that's it
Could this be a faulty coil not delivering a strong spark ?

 

[DaveHerns]

Are the plugs wet with unburnt fuel? Have you got points and condenser ignition? Sometimes a dodgy condenser can make the spark too weak to ignite the mixture under compression.

 

[johnad]

Hi
Thanks for that reply yes it is points and condenser I have been using one of those plug on type things that light up to show I'm getting a spark I did also remove the plugs to check and there is a spark there but with my limited knowledge i dont know if this is a strong spark or not ?
I tried easy start and also put a little fuel direct in the top of the carb so I'm guessing this proves it's not a fuel issue ? But although it turns over as normal it won't fire not even a cough
I have no idea about what parts to get as it's an old taunus engine as far as i havd been told with the cooling system converted for use in a boat so i have no details to identify parts
Are all condenser the same ? Should I also suspect the coil ?
Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[DaveHerns]

A spark at a plug in the open needs less power than a spark under compression. You'll need the right type condensor, probably Bosch although you could mount one externally. Coils are a bit easier ,depends if you have a ballast resistor or not. People do say modern condensors aren't much good so is there any chance of fitting electronic ignition? Let's see a photo of the engine and distributor.

 

[Burnerman]

If your battery voltage is low, the spark strength could be seriously reduced. ....can you couple up another battery?
John (bobbing around in the Mediterranean just now, with a hopeless signal )

 

[mointainwalker]

"bobbing around in the Mediterranean just now "

Ah, I bet you wish you were back in Cumbria, on your back and changing someone's sump gasket and not being troubled by a pesky hostess to top up your wine-glass every 20 minutes !

 

[Burnerman]

Funny you should say that. ......Can't remember my hands being so clean for ages!
John

 

[johnad]

Just got back from the boat
Anyone have any idea what parts I need ?

 

[DaveHerns]

Engine looks similar to a Ford pre cross flow and distributor is I think a Motorcraft, Ford's own make, There are 2 types of points , depending on which way the shaft turns . Condenser would be the same. Have a look on EBay for parts for Ford classic cars, Motorcraft points and condensers.

 

[Burnerman]

With the new points in, slowly rotate the engine using a spanner on the crank nut or whatever and set the gap to 15 thou. Apply a spot of grease to the cam to keep it that way. With the rotor arm in place you should be able to rotate the cam a few degrees because of the advance / ****** mechanism below. A drop or two of oil on that felt pad lubricates this.
John

 

[Stivino]

If I remember correctly, there were three different types of distributor in old British Fords. As yours is a German Ford it narrows it down to two; Ford or Bosch. The Bosch points gap on Bosch distributors was 20 thou and if it was a ford distributor the gap was 25 thou.
Generally, Ford distributors had a black cap and Bosch had a red cap. Looking at yours, I'd say that it is a Ford distributor.

 

[DaveHerns]

Yes, it's one of Ford's own dizzies. Motorcraft was the name they used, previously Autolite. 25 thou gap. I think the different rotations were between OHV and OHC (Pinto) engines.

 

[Burnerman]

Do check the rotor arm condition, and check the carbon brush is still in position in the centre of the distributor cap.
John

 

[Mottie]

Looking at those points, I’d say the condenser is knackered.

 

[johnad]