Fuse size, how often does one check it?

It may have no downsides but it is not necessary.

Would you advise that in Eric's OP example he should fit a 250mA fuse? If not, where do you draw the line?


Perhaps you could quote an example of when it is or has been advantageous and -

what we should do where such things are not available.
 
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It may have no downsides but it is not necessary.
As I implied, if it has no downsides, but might possibly (even if only very rarely) offer advantages, and costs no more (in money, time or effort), then the 'risk assessment' seems to be a no-brainer - it makes more sense to do it than not do it, just in case it one day 'does good'.
Would you advise that in Eric's OP example he should fit a 250mA fuse? If not, where do you draw the line?
If a 250mA fuse were available and were adequate for the load, then I would probably use it, but one can only work with what is available.
Perhaps you could quote an example of when it is or has been advantageous and -...
I would need a crystal ball to answer that question. I have certainly had the internal power supplies of electronic equipment blow 1A fuses and to be repairable. Whether they would still have been repairable had it been a higher-rated fuse, I obviously cannot tell you.
what we should do where such things are not available.
As above, one has to work with what is available. We're talking about BS1363 plugs (or FCUs), so are limited to what BS1362 fuses are available. I would not go to the length or hassle of constructing enclosures to house lower-rated fuses of a different format. If I construct equipment, I will usually incorporate an internal fuse of the smallest appropriate rating (in which case the 'external' BS1362 fuse becomes irrelevant as far as the equipment is concerned) but when I buy ready-built equipment, unless I go to the trouble of opening it up, I don't know what, if any, protection is inside.

Kind Regards, John
 
I don't know why manufacturers deem 0.75 flex suitable for protection by a 13A fuse.
The regs say otherwise.
 
This has been discussed several times.

Appliance flexes don't come under our 7671 regs.

Under the appropriate regulations it is suitable.
 
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BS1362FusingTime.png
Looking at the curve it would seem with a 3A fuse it is very unlikely that the 32A type B MCB would trip before the fuse even with a short circuit, however with the 13A in the first second the current could trip the MCB before the fuse, and we look at divided into circuits, as necessary to avoid hazards and minimize inconvenience in the event of a fault, so there is a good reason when MCB's or RCBO's are fitted to the consumer unit to use a fuse smaller than 13A in a FCU, however if fuses are used in the consumer unit, then that does not apply. With a supply at less than 32A then there is a real danger that the main MCB will trip before the fuse blows, with a B16 looking at 80A to trip, the permitted ELI was 2.42Ω for 13A fuse, so for there to be any discrimination it needs a 20A MCB even then 2.30Ω is a little too close.

Fuses_165-6.jpg
We may have 1,2, 3, 5, 7, 10, and 13 however other than 3 and 13 they are not that popular, there was a time when I would select a fuse to protect the appliance, however, I found with experience, when a 1A fuse ruptures feeding a standard lamp, 99 times of of 100 the bulb has also blown, so fitting the 1A fuse did not protect anything, it just resulted in more expense, odd one out is when my wife rummaged through the garage and found a SON bulb E27 and fitted it to a standard lamp from Ikea, the fuse did blow with a large bang, as to the lamp at that time I did not have any SON fittings so not a clue if it worked after or not.

But if on overload the fuse for a drill will burn out before the drill then yes fit a 5A fuse, however every time it has happened to me, the drill needed a re-wind so fuse did not really help. Only time when I can say using fuses saved us money was with some heaters on a shrink wrap machine, the heaters were well know for going short circuit, and the mark/space switching was causing standard contactors to fail on a regular basis, but solid state one would fail with a short circuit when protected with a mechanical overload, but the semi-conductor fuse would actually rupture before the solid state contactor failed, so they actually worked. But they were not standard 13A type.

So other than the SON lamp, and I don't know if bulb was damaged or not, I have not seen a fuse in a plug fail and so protect the equipment it supplied, yes the fuse failed, but so did the equipment it supplied, so may as well fuse for cable not appliance.
 
.... I have not seen a fuse in a plug fail and so protect the equipment it supplied, yes the fuse failed, but so did the equipment it supplied, so may as well fuse for cable not appliance.
As I wrote to EFLI, I have certainly seen situations in which a fault in a PSU caused a low-rated (usually 1A) fuse to blow, and the PSU, although damaged, was fairly easily repairable. However, as I said to him, without a crystal ball, I cannot know whether it would still have been repairable if protected by a much larger fuse. One might speculate that, since something usually gets very hot in these situations, damage may extend to other components if the current is not interrupted as quickly as possible.

Kind Regards, John
 
... however, I found with experience, when a 1A fuse ruptures feeding a standard lamp, 99 times of of 100 the bulb has also blown, so fitting the 1A fuse did not protect anything, it just resulted in more expense ...
Well, yes, I don't think this discussion is very relevant to bulbs/lamps - since if the fuse (of whatever rating) blows, it will almost inevitably be because the bulb/lamp has already died. In that case there is no need to try (no point in trying) to protect the 'load', so that a fuse adequate to protect the cable is all that is really needed.

Kind Regards, John
 
Perhaps the CCCs in 7671 are rather conservative.

After all, look at the csa of fuse wire; would it be alright at, say, half its rating?
 

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