Fused Spurs within Kitchen Unit
- Thread starter Jupiter01
- Start date
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Is the shelf fixed? In my kitchen units the shelves are on small pins so they can be adjusted. I would not mount any electrical item on them.
Why not have them on the wall behind the unit with an access hole in the back of the unit?
Why not have them on the wall behind the unit with an access hole in the back of the unit?
Better fix them the wall just above the units (if they're wall units)- surface or flush, no-one will see them) or below worktop height again in the wall (cut out the back of the unit for access) or surface mounted to the side of the unit (or the back if it is thick enough but they usually aren't).
On top of the units is more usual.
Edit - didn't see the other two replies. I didn't mean more usual than those suggestions, but more usual than under a shelf.
Edit - didn't see the other two replies. I didn't mean more usual than those suggestions, but more usual than under a shelf.
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You can do that but it makes hard work of the wiring. Usual deal is FCU above the units, all nicely chased in & flush fitted, then flex from FCU through a hole in the unit to the fan/lights. Posh units have service voids behind them so you don't even see a scruffy bit of flex. If you ever have to remove the unit you've only got flex to worry about rather than T & E.
IMO it is greatly preferable to fix your switches, sockets and outlets to the wall of the house, not to a wooden piece of furniture. Even though kitchen units are not moved very often. You can cut a neat square hole in the back of the unit if you want.
Can I clarify, this would mean that the back board of the unit is cut out to expose the FCU fitted on the wall?
I am concerned that fitting this above the wall cabinets may make them difficult to reach to replace Fuses and also inspect the LED for correct operation.
Yes, and that's why my switches are 150mm above the worktop, in the same row as the sockets. The switches feed a flex outlet or a socket close to the appliance, with the cable vertically chased into the wall and plastered over.
Your method is quite whimsical, if I may say that without offense.
Your method is quite whimsical, if I may say that without offense.
All my switches are 150mm above the worktop. Most of the appliances are below the worktop, and have sockets below so that the dishwasher, for example, can be pulled out and replaced without need for tools.
Only the extractor hood, boiler and cabinet lighting have higher outlets, though I have a couple of spares.
In a kitchen, running the circuit 150mm above the worktop is economical in effort and materials, and you can have a row of sockets and switches, as many as you want.
Luckily, appliance fuses blow approximately never (rounded to three significant figures).
Only the extractor hood, boiler and cabinet lighting have higher outlets, though I have a couple of spares.
In a kitchen, running the circuit 150mm above the worktop is economical in effort and materials, and you can have a row of sockets and switches, as many as you want.
Luckily, appliance fuses blow approximately never (rounded to three significant figures).
Sorry, I'm still unclear on the hob ignition connection. My hob manufacturer advises that the cable should be hard wired into a connection point. An FCU I assume? Where do you have this switched/unswitched FCU and do you then have an associated switch above the worktop?
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