Quite so ... now where's my diversity calculator? ... (assuming the cables were in parallel) would that be around 397A / 91 kW ?Good grief, now we're up to 2 x 10mm².
Kind Regards, John
Quite so ... now where's my diversity calculator? ... (assuming the cables were in parallel) would that be around 397A / 91 kW ?Good grief, now we're up to 2 x 10mm².
Good grief, now we're up to 2 x 10mm².
Just as well use 25mm² tails for everything.
No.Also while I'm here I'd like to know if I really have to connect both to a ccu above the worktop
Yes, you can get dual cooker outlets.or can I fit something in the 400mm base unit in between hob and oven housing?
This issue always results in 'some debate'!Ok so thanks for all the replies so far, I think I might have worded the thread title wrong which I see now is causing some debate!
I would suspect that even those who are saying things about 'future proofing' would have to agree that a single 32A (or even 40A, but you wouldn't need that) circuit with a single 6mm² cable is more than enough for any cooking appliances you're likely to install in the foreseeable future.By "future proofing" I literally meant like a few months (maybe sooner) when we upgrade cooking appliances.
You still need a cooker switch above the worktop.32A mcb - 6mm cable - 45a dual outlet plate inside base unit -
That and the cooker switch.I take it this means the isolation for both is the breaker at the consumer unti?
You still need a cooker switch above the worktop.
Ah, but you can cut off six of the strands and still have adequate csa -I find it is bl**dy hard getting 25mm into socket terminalsGood grief, now we're up to 2 x 10mm².
Just as well use 25mm² tails for everything.
People don't want two switches if the appliances are together.and for it to be within 2 metres of both appliancesYou still need a cooker switch above the worktop.
having separate switches has the advantage that one appliance can be isolated if it's tripping the breaker (not unknown with heating elements) but the other appliance still used
You still need a cooker switch above the worktop.
and for it to be within 2 metres of both appliances
having separate switches has the advantage that one appliance can be isolated if it's tripping the breaker (not unknown with heating elements) but the other appliance still used
I thought the trees were disappearing as well! An extremely large mirror or lens might be a better bet, provided one only wants to cook during daylight hours on sunny daysFuture proof, I would go for a wood burning stove! What with the state of the grid and vulnerable gas supplies
What doesn't?This issue always results in 'some debate'!
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local