Thank you all for replying. Do any of you know if it would be possible to level the units if we remove the worktops? If it is, then I'll ask the worktop company to remove the worktops and I'll get the units levelled. Will I need new end panels, or could we just drop the unit heights?
Gap between top of base cabinets and worktop
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Thank you all for replying. Do any of you know if it would be possible to level the units if we remove the worktops? If it is, then I'll ask the worktop company to remove the worktops and I'll get the units levelled. Will I
I am fairly sure that will be the answer I receive!
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To be fair it might not be the fitter.
I fitted our units dead on, then when the worktop fitters arrived 6 months later the units on the old external wall were all tilting forward 2-3mm.
They mentioned"not bad for DIY" which sounded q bit harsh...i think what happened is the floor settled a bit everywhere except where the original footings had already squashed the ground.
Not sure what the tolerance is for settlement of a new floor adjacent to an existing one but i don't think i can blame the builder for 3mm but it did make the worktop look wrong if you look carefully underneath. Luckily not in an obvious position.
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Push a knife into the blob of glue/silicone. If it is soft then it is just silicone and will be easy to remove. Using a multitool with a scraper blade you will be able to remove the silicone. Then adjust the legs on the units to raise them up to meet the worktops. The end panel will however still be too short.
My concern however is that end panels are normally fixed height. If yours are then it suggests that the units are too high rather than too low. If that is the case then you will need to use the multitool to cut through the silicone where it meets the wall as well.
Can you post images of the whole kitchen?
If you have returns, ie one slab of stone meeting another at 90 degrees then things might become more tricky.
I'm not at home at the moment opps, but when I get back this afternoon, I'll push a knife into the adhesive and take some pictures of the kitchen which I'll post. I was wondering if we could adjust the legs to drop the units to the height of the end panels and then have the worktops refitted. Would that be possible do you think?
Potentially yes, depends how level the floor finish is. Hopefully you haven't tiled up from the worktop or fitted splashbacks yet?
Thanks once again opps and oldbutnotdead and everyone else who has responded.
I've checked and a sharp knife goes through the adhesive easily, which hopefully means that it's silicone.
The floor is level as it was a self-levelling screed and I had a floor laid over it with no issues.
This particular problem only seems to be with the island, which means no tiling or splashbacks to worry about thank goodness.
I'm hoping that if I can drop the units, that the piece with the corbels will drop too, as at the moment they sit slightly above the height of the end panels.
I'd like to do this properly as I plan to live here for a long, long time, however I'd appreciate your advice as I don't know what way of dealing with this would be best. Thanks all.
I've checked and a sharp knife goes through the adhesive easily, which hopefully means that it's silicone.
The floor is level as it was a self-levelling screed and I had a floor laid over it with no issues.
This particular problem only seems to be with the island, which means no tiling or splashbacks to worry about thank goodness.
I'm hoping that if I can drop the units, that the piece with the corbels will drop too, as at the moment they sit slightly above the height of the end panels.
I'd like to do this properly as I plan to live here for a long, long time, however I'd appreciate your advice as I don't know what way of dealing with this would be best. Thanks all.
Well happy days (island-no splashbacks to worry about). Take it you've had no joy getting the original fitters back to sort their boo boo (which would be the best way- that worktop assuming it is stone is going to weigh a lot & require very careful handling- probably cost more than my car 
). Also be aware that the floor screed may not be spot level- 1mm per metre runout isn't uncommon which doesn't sound much but a 2mm gap may shout at you depending on where it is.
The plumbing may cause issues- the taps are probably on flexi tails so moving by a couple of millimetres won't be an issue. The drainage is more likely to be rigid plastic- you may need to disconnect before you relevel. The sockets on the end panels aren't a problem but may need attention (if the cutouts are tight on the cabling)
First, get your level on the worktop- it may be that the worktop is level & the units are ****ed, or it may be the other way round. Check floor level to see if there's any runout. Do you have adjustable legs on the units- if not then this is going to be very tedious. If that glue is silicon then it won't be carrying any load- cut it out (sharp breadknife).
Assuming you have adjustable legs.....check floor level. If the floor is not level (say plus or minus 2mm per metre) then decide whether you can live with that much out of level on the worktop. If you can then easy life, you need to set the unit heights so that the end panels are snug under worktop/to floor. If you can't (and worst case is the end facing you is highest) then youneed to set unit heights so the conspicuous end panel is snug as above and use a router to trim the other end panel down to size.
Re the original fitters- did you book a company to fit the kitchen or did you book one bunch to fit units & the other bunch to fit worktop? Have you paid any of them yet? You'll have paid a good chunk of cash either way, you really shouldn't be having to spend time and effort correcting their shoddy workmanship.
). Also be aware that the floor screed may not be spot level- 1mm per metre runout isn't uncommon which doesn't sound much but a 2mm gap may shout at you depending on where it is. The plumbing may cause issues- the taps are probably on flexi tails so moving by a couple of millimetres won't be an issue. The drainage is more likely to be rigid plastic- you may need to disconnect before you relevel. The sockets on the end panels aren't a problem but may need attention (if the cutouts are tight on the cabling)
First, get your level on the worktop- it may be that the worktop is level & the units are ****ed, or it may be the other way round. Check floor level to see if there's any runout. Do you have adjustable legs on the units- if not then this is going to be very tedious. If that glue is silicon then it won't be carrying any load- cut it out (sharp breadknife).
Assuming you have adjustable legs.....check floor level. If the floor is not level (say plus or minus 2mm per metre) then decide whether you can live with that much out of level on the worktop. If you can then easy life, you need to set the unit heights so that the end panels are snug under worktop/to floor. If you can't (and worst case is the end facing you is highest) then youneed to set unit heights so the conspicuous end panel is snug as above and use a router to trim the other end panel down to size.
Re the original fitters- did you book a company to fit the kitchen or did you book one bunch to fit units & the other bunch to fit worktop? Have you paid any of them yet? You'll have paid a good chunk of cash either way, you really shouldn't be having to spend time and effort correcting their shoddy workmanship.
Well happy days (island-no splashbacks to worry about). Take it you've had no joy getting the original fitters back to sort their boo boo (which would be the best way- that worktop assuming it is stone is going to weigh a lot & require very careful handling- probably cost more than my car
The plumbing may cause issues- the taps are probably on flexi tails so moving by a couple of millimetres won't be an issue. The drainage is more likely to be rigid plastic- you may need to disconnect before you relevel. The sockets on the end panels aren't a problem but may need attention (if the cutouts are tight on the cabling)
First, get your level on the worktop- it may be that the worktop is level & the units are ****ed, or it may be the other way round. Check floor level to see if there's any runout. Do you have adjustable legs on the units- if not then this is going to be very tedious. If that glue is silicon then it won't be carrying any load- cut it out (sharp breadknife).
Assuming you have adjustable legs.....check floor level. If the floor is not level (say plus or minus 2mm per metre) then decide whether you can live with that much out of level on the worktop. If you can then easy life, you need to set the unit heights so that the end panels are snug under worktop/to floor. If you can't (and worst case is the end facing you is highest) then youneed to set unit heights so the conspicuous end panel is snug as above and use a router to trim the other end panel down to size.
Re the original fitters- did you book a company to fit the kitchen or did you book one bunch to fit units & the other bunch to fit worktop? Have you paid any of them yet? You'll have paid a good chunk of cash either way, you really shouldn't be having to spend time and effort correcting their shoddy workmanship.
Thanks so much oldbutnotdead. I'm going to check the levels of the floor and worktops now. I've just contacted the original fitter, so I don't know what he's going to say yet. I wanted to find out what I might be dealing with first, which you and everyone else who has responded has helped me to do. I've paid the worktop company in full, but not the kitchen fitter. They are two separate entities.
After the help and advice which you all kindly provided me with here, I've now managed to get to the point where I've almost finished filling the gaps between the worktop and units as I hope that you can see from the photos. The problem now is that I don't have a smoothing tool which is small enough to fit in the remaining gap shown in the second photo, so that I can complete filling and finishing it properly. I've even tried using a small paintbrush which didn't fit. What might I use to do this, or is there a specific tool available for filling and finishing such a small space that any of you know of please?
Did you relevel the thing or just go for filling the gaps?
What sort of filler are you using- silicon or powder based?
Have a look at grout finishers (Toolstation for sure, possibly others)- the ball end may be small enough
Not sure Fugi profiles are what you want (TS again) but they might do the job
Or for powder-based, try a sponge
What sort of filler are you using- silicon or powder based?
Have a look at grout finishers (Toolstation for sure, possibly others)- the ball end may be small enough
Not sure Fugi profiles are what you want (TS again) but they might do the job
Or for powder-based, try a sponge
Thank you oldbutnotdead, I'll take a look at the grout finishers. I've been using a Fugi tool, but it is also too big to fit in this last gap.
I spoke to the worktop fitters who were really helpful, but ultimately they were concerned that when removing the worktop, there would be a small chance that it might crack, as there are weaknesses around the sink cutout.
As I couldn't risk having to buy another worktop, I filled the gaps using caulk, not silicone though.
I spoke to the worktop fitters who were really helpful, but ultimately they were concerned that when removing the worktop, there would be a small chance that it might crack, as there are weaknesses around the sink cutout.
As I couldn't risk having to buy another worktop, I filled the gaps using caulk, not silicone though.
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Just chop the tool in half, unless you're keen to have a complete one.
Personally I'd probably try to use a finger or some cardboard, but you may have higher standards than me!
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