So bridge 1 and 4 (HW off and CH on)?
Glow-worm Flexicom 18 sx 'No demand for water/heating'
- Thread starter Mark Coverdale
- Start date
So bridge 1 and 4 (HW off and CH on)?
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Two bridges, one from L to 1, and one from L to 4 (L to 1 and 1 to 4 would be equivalent). If stats and wiring are correct, and 3 port valve works, this should fire up the heating but not the hw when you turn the power back on and the room stat up.
If it doesn't work, next thing to do would be to leave the programmer bridges in place, and bridge live and switch live (call for heat at the thermostat. Again there'll be a wiring diagram on the back. I can't see which rts series stat you have.
If it doesn't work, next thing to do would be to leave the programmer bridges in place, and bridge live and switch live (call for heat at the thermostat. Again there'll be a wiring diagram on the back. I can't see which rts series stat you have.
Brilliant, I'll try that. The programmer is a Drayton Lifestyle LP522, the room stat is Drayton and the cyclinder stat is a Drayton HTS3.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Excellent! I tried that and the boiler fired up straight away & power went to the room stat (so it now clicks when it's turned up). So, do you think I have to replace the programmer?
It's getting nice and warm in here...
Assuming you've previously tried heating without hot water, the programmer is duff. This will be due to a failed relay inside.
I quite like the Drayton LP series, they're usually pretty good, the 241, 522, and 722 all fit the same backplate, being 24hr, 5/2day, and 7day models respectively.
I quite like the Drayton LP series, they're usually pretty good, the 241, 522, and 722 all fit the same backplate, being 24hr, 5/2day, and 7day models respectively.
We always had the hot water on permanently, so I'm not sure if we've had heating without hot water...
Aha, better check then.
Move the bridge(s) that are in terminal 1 to terminal 3, so that L-3-4 are linked, and unhook the cylinder stat from the cylinder.
With roomstat up and cylinder stat off cylinder and set to max, valve should move to mid position and give heating and hw. With roomstat down valve should move to hw only and boiler should fire up.
Now put cylinder stat back on cylinder, turn to minimum, everything should be off. Turn the roomstat up and it should fire up heating only.
If all these steps work as expected, programmer is duff, otherwise let us know.
Move the bridge(s) that are in terminal 1 to terminal 3, so that L-3-4 are linked, and unhook the cylinder stat from the cylinder.
With roomstat up and cylinder stat off cylinder and set to max, valve should move to mid position and give heating and hw. With roomstat down valve should move to hw only and boiler should fire up.
Now put cylinder stat back on cylinder, turn to minimum, everything should be off. Turn the roomstat up and it should fire up heating only.
If all these steps work as expected, programmer is duff, otherwise let us know.
So I re-bridged as you said.
With roomstat up and cylinder stat off cylinder and set to max - valve moves to mid position, I ran the hot water for 5 mins and it didn't really get hot.
With room stat down, the valve move to the 'back' position.
With cylinder stat back on and min. the valve moves to the forward position and the heating is on.
With roomstat up and cylinder stat off cylinder and set to max - valve moves to mid position, I ran the hot water for 5 mins and it didn't really get hot.
With room stat down, the valve move to the 'back' position.
With cylinder stat back on and min. the valve moves to the forward position and the heating is on.
Can you confirm that with room stat down and cylinder stat off cylinder and set to max, that the boiler fires up?
After about 10 minutes the flow pipe between valve and cylinder should be fairly hot, but the cylinder water itself will take probably half an hour, more if the heating is on.
After about 10 minutes the flow pipe between valve and cylinder should be fairly hot, but the cylinder water itself will take probably half an hour, more if the heating is on.
Yes it does. So, I'll wait half an hour and then should have hot water?
Yes, with hw only running it'll take about half an hour to get fairly hot water from the taps from a cold cylinder. This is because the coil in the cylinder can only transfer heat so fast, and your boiler will modulate back from 18kw as the cylinder heats up.
You've tried all combinations of programmer and thermostat settings now, so you need a new programmer. I think B&Q sell LP522s if you need one in a hurry.
You've tried all combinations of programmer and thermostat settings now, so you need a new programmer. I think B&Q sell LP522s if you need one in a hurry.
Gotcha.
Well thank you so much, you've been just brilliant! You've saved us a lot of time and a lot of money.
So 2 final questions,
What's your favourite tipple and what's your address?
I owe you a massive thanks!
Well thank you so much, you've been just brilliant! You've saved us a lot of time and a lot of money.
So 2 final questions,
What's your favourite tipple and what's your address?
I owe you a massive thanks!
My favourite tipple is baileys, but I dont give out my address on the Internet lol. I'll settle for a few presses of the 'thanks' button above though 
Seriously though, it's helped take my mind off my aching muscles from building a fence. I'm only too happy to help.
Seriously though, it's helped take my mind off my aching muscles from building a fence. I'm only too happy to help.
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