my money is on the expansion vessel/ prv . hence my last question.
Glowworm Flexicom 30CX Boiler losing pressure
- Thread starter Steve1138
- Start date
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Technician has just left, different guy this time to the last 2 visits.
Again he could find no problems with the boiler though. He did say the expansion vessel was low though so topped that up. He also replaced the PRV as a precaution. He said the last guy probably didn't do this as it is a nasty job on this boiler. Seems like the last guy wasn't up to much.
He also said that closing the flow / return valves does not truly isolate the boiler so my isolation tests don't really count for much which seemed a bit odd to me?
He did leave the flow / return valves closed though after topping it back up and said if the pressure drops again whilst the valves are closed then we should open them up and see if the pressure goes back up. If it does then that means the system has not leaked as the pressure from the system will have filled the boiler back up again and so the problem will have to be with the boiler. If it continues to go down though then the leak is in the system. Seems like a variation on the tests I have already been doing though.
Again he could find no problems with the boiler though. He did say the expansion vessel was low though so topped that up. He also replaced the PRV as a precaution. He said the last guy probably didn't do this as it is a nasty job on this boiler. Seems like the last guy wasn't up to much.
He also said that closing the flow / return valves does not truly isolate the boiler so my isolation tests don't really count for much which seemed a bit odd to me?
He did leave the flow / return valves closed though after topping it back up and said if the pressure drops again whilst the valves are closed then we should open them up and see if the pressure goes back up. If it does then that means the system has not leaked as the pressure from the system will have filled the boiler back up again and so the problem will have to be with the boiler. If it continues to go down though then the leak is in the system. Seems like a variation on the tests I have already been doing though.
i have heard this one before from an ariston 'technician'.
i wonder how low?
the guy is in the wrong job then. it must have been close to knocking off time or his time was up on that job. they have a set number of repairs to do in a day, if they dont meet the targets they get in trouble. so they just leave it to the next guy.
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Well either way the stuff he did hasn't solved it as the pressure is still dropping, admittedly its dropping way slower than before but its gone from 1.5 to 0.5.
I think I may have had a bit of a breakthrough though.
There is a stopcock on the heating system in the bathroom randomly, in the floor of the airing cupboard. I have just realised that this is actually really wet around the wheel and the shaft of the valve. The concrete under it is also pretty damp. I left a bit of toilet roll under it and checked it about 10 minutes later and this was also damp.
Here is a picture of it:
This valve was closed when we first moved in which was why we could not get the radiators to come on. I believe there used to be a water tank in this cupboard which the previous owners removed for some reason so my guess is that they banged this valve when taking the tank out. They obviously were not careful when taking the tank out as some of the wall tiles around the frame of the cupboard are coming off too.
This has to be the next logical thing for me to change I guess?
Are these types of valves easy to change? Would I do it in the same way as the radiator valves, ie drain the system then just unscrew it?
Would the replacement valve need soldering or welding in place or would it just screw back in place?
I think I may have had a bit of a breakthrough though.
There is a stopcock on the heating system in the bathroom randomly, in the floor of the airing cupboard. I have just realised that this is actually really wet around the wheel and the shaft of the valve. The concrete under it is also pretty damp. I left a bit of toilet roll under it and checked it about 10 minutes later and this was also damp.
Here is a picture of it:
This valve was closed when we first moved in which was why we could not get the radiators to come on. I believe there used to be a water tank in this cupboard which the previous owners removed for some reason so my guess is that they banged this valve when taking the tank out. They obviously were not careful when taking the tank out as some of the wall tiles around the frame of the cupboard are coming off too.
This has to be the next logical thing for me to change I guess?
Are these types of valves easy to change? Would I do it in the same way as the radiator valves, ie drain the system then just unscrew it?
Would the replacement valve need soldering or welding in place or would it just screw back in place?
Thanks, Ill give that a go. I guess this leaking and being wet could be the cause of the dropping pressure?
If the valve does need replacing then do you know what the process would be?
Actually I think it's a gatevalve not a stopcock if that makes any difference?
Tightened the gland nut but the pressure dropped by roughly .2 of a bar in a couple of hours or so.
I tried taking the gland nut off fully and getting some PTFE tape around the spindle but too much water was coming out to get it to hold.
I think the next step will be to replace the valve.
I've been reading that ball valves are better than gate valves, is this true?
Would a ball valve be suitable in my case?
I tried taking the gland nut off fully and getting some PTFE tape around the spindle but too much water was coming out to get it to hold.
I think the next step will be to replace the valve.
I've been reading that ball valves are better than gate valves, is this true?
Would a ball valve be suitable in my case?
why is the valve there? what does it shut off?
ballvalves have a much smaller bore, therefore causing a bigger restriction to get water through. i would replace like for like, unless you think it can be done away with.
ballvalves have a much smaller bore, therefore causing a bigger restriction to get water through. i would replace like for like, unless you think it can be done away with.
I have no idea why it's there but when its closed the radiators don't heat up and when its open they do so I assume it's on the heating system.
I'm guessing it is a remnant of the flats original heating system as I believe there used to be a water tank in this cupboard.
Would you say a ball valve is no good for a heating system then?
gate valves are usually used on low pressure systems ie gravity water pipes and open vent heating systems.
i would be tempted to get rid of it tbh.
i would be tempted to get rid of it tbh.
Do you mean replace it with another type or just replace it with a piece of pipe?
well i cant be 100% sure, but from what you say it isnt doing very much. i would get rid of it, its summat else to leak in the future if you repair it.
there isnt much room to manoeuvre stuff about tho to get a fitting in. could be a pig of a job to get a piece of pipe in
there isnt much room to manoeuvre stuff about tho to get a fitting in. could be a pig of a job to get a piece of pipe in
That's what I was thinking.
I thought just putting a new valve in would be easier because of the weird location.
Would I need to solder a new valve in place or do these things just hold in place with compression?
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