If the discs won't wriggle out, and the carrier bolts just wont shift, slackening the hub centre bolt or nut may just give you enough clearance to shift them.
John
John
Golf 7 5G1 2.0 TDI rear pads change
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Or...If the discs won't wriggle out, and the carrier bolts just wont shift, slackening the hub centre bolt or nut may just give you enough clearance to shift them.
John
Spray penetrating fluid on the carrier bolts several times during 24 hours.
Then try removing the bolts.
Hammer shock method usually works
I had to remove the bottom shock absorber bolt and move the shock out of the way to be able to get an extension and socket straight onto the calliper carrier bolts on my A3. I think I used a 24" breaker bar too.
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It seems extreme for 200Nm torque for the carrier bolts.
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I've become lazy.
I used the 24 hour penetrating oil trick and a carpenter's impact driver (low torque).
Let it play for 20 seconds on both directions.
That was enough to break the rust and let me remove the bolts with a 12" bar.
Isn't it great when you're not in a rush?
I used the 24 hour penetrating oil trick and a carpenter's impact driver (low torque).
Let it play for 20 seconds on both directions.
That was enough to break the rust and let me remove the bolts with a 12" bar.
Isn't it great when you're not in a rush?
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I really do hope the discs wiggle out!
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Job done!
Actually only changed the o/s pads which were off but the n/s pads still well plenty lining so I let them be. Rather curious about difference in wear but why waste good pads?
Discs are still good too so new ones are held in reserve. Will need the carrier removed, the disc wouldn't wiggle out when I tried.
Used my 7mm allen key with handle, specific for calipers, to remove the caliper pins and 5mm allen to get the motor removed.
Good foot and handbrake on both sides.
Actually only changed the o/s pads which were off but the n/s pads still well plenty lining so I let them be. Rather curious about difference in wear but why waste good pads?
Discs are still good too so new ones are held in reserve. Will need the carrier removed, the disc wouldn't wiggle out when I tried.
Used my 7mm allen key with handle, specific for calipers, to remove the caliper pins and 5mm allen to get the motor removed.
Good foot and handbrake on both sides.
You should have changed the lot in one go. You should never do just one side with brakes. You should have investigated why one side was worn more than the other. Either sticking calliper piston or rusted/sticking pads in the slides. I'd do it all again if I were you before the new pads wear in to the old disc.
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I take your point.
The pads dropped out when I pulled caliper off and the piston push back without any bother. The discs are clean.
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I'll heed the advice and change both sides.
If that was the side that had the worn pads, perhaps the other side is seized?
Tried to crack the carrier bolts on the rear of a B6 Passat for a work mate and failed, access to them isn’t great but they were fecking tight.
Chances are the thread lock didn’t help either, heat may have helped.
Chances are the thread lock didn’t help either, heat may have helped.
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o/s caliper piston seized after all!
It retracted no bother for new pads, foot/handbrake on/off working fine then a couple of days later it seized. Sorted with a caliper.
Need to be more vigilant of piston operation.
It retracted no bother for new pads, foot/handbrake on/off working fine then a couple of days later it seized. Sorted with a caliper.
Need to be more vigilant of piston operation.
Ever noticed that the outside (visible) face of the disc can often look quite OK, yet the inboard face can be in a hell of a state?
HNY, Mr. Spanner (and all DIYNot greasers)
John
HNY, Mr. Spanner (and all DIYNot greasers)
John
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