Good Reasonably Priced 1/2" Router

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2000w at 230v is 8.7amp
2000w at 110v is 18.2amp
so down rating a 110v machine may be to keep it within a certain cable or transformer size for convenience as in 1760w is 16 amp 110v
Yes. It's notable that Trend supply the 110 volt T10 and T11 (basically DW625s with improved bases) with 32A plugs. Every 110 volt DW625 I ever saw new came without a plug (although some dealers did put a 16A plug in, loose). My last MOF177e came without a plug, too, although I did buy that in 1999
 
the hitachi m12v from memory is 1570w at 110v and 1850w at 230/240 for the old old green one
 
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It may not seem like a lot, but it is about 13 or 14% lower power on the 110 volt tool before you factor in other issues. A 1600 watt 1/2in router will certainly feel a tad underpowered against an 1850 watt one when all things are equal. Add that to an undersized 1.5mm 50ft long cable and the voltage drop would potentially reduce the power to the equivalent of 1200 or 1300 watts or maybe even less.

A few years back when I tried a couple of 2200watt Festool OF2200e's on dense 50mm plywood I couldn't tell the difference between your 230 volt model and my 110 volt one (although mine was plugged directly into a 6kVA transformer so it wasn't starved of power)
 
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yes indeed the volt drop and increased resistance turns to heat thus further aggravating the the amount off flow as it further reduces power flowing
 
Which is why some people can't get their head around the fact that if you try to run a big (1500 watt plus) router at the end of 50ft of 1.5mm cable off a transformer where someone else is running a 2200 watt 9in grinder your router behaves like it is gutless (and the truly ignorant, who know no better, will then swear that 110 volt tools are crap)
 
My 110v lead is 2.5mm. Single socket.
Less than 10m long.
I never allow a second machine to run.

But thats obviously not the problem. Because Hitachi/Hikoki only make the M12V2 110v volt router with 1570 watts.
Which is the real reason its useless.
 
Well pretty much every situation I've dealt with where 110 volt tools aren't performing satisfactorily has turned out to be one of four main reasons: extension cable too thin and/or too long, too much load on the transformer and/or too small a transformer, damage to the distribution cabling on daisy chained distribution systems or poor maintenance of the tool.

If you are used to using a 2200 watt router and pick up a 1570 watt model it will be underpowered in comparison. Against that I have (do) use a couple of MOF177e routers, one 230 volt the other 110 volt and there is no noticeable difference in performance between them (same applied to the DW625s when we had a workshop business). Same goes for the Festool OF2200 routers, although the 110 volt version gives you an instant indication of low voltage by refusing point blank to run.

It is maybe worth mentioning that even a couple of hundred watts on input power can make quite a difference. For example the old 1850 watt DW625s (series 2 to 4) could labour quite noticeably when making certain heavy cuts in Corian (a real tool killer of a material) whereas the later series 6 DW625s with 2000 watts on tap (just 150 watts more) were far better. Of course a 2300 watt Makita or 2200 watt Festool are better still
 
its also worth adding the input power and output power are 2 different amounts with the difference being mechanical [friction]and electrical[resistance/heat inefficiency off components]
so a 2200w router may be 1600w shaft power yet another 2200w could 1750w shaft power
examples here
https://products.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW615/
https://products.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW625EK/
in general electronic control can use 25-40% off power input but the same output as its the same motor with electronics
as in old bxd drill 450w motor then new fangle electronic control drill is 600w but same 450w output
 
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