Sounds like a large inductive loads frying the contacts closed, or a fault somewhere causing a fault current which is frying the contacts together (you would then get a blown fuse or trip gone).
Grasslin timer
- Thread starter Grastace
- Start date
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Hello again
Timer is working
A few time s in the past the lights (pretty sure its them) have tripped the circuit after bad weather but non of the lights needed replacing,they were all still working
Is it possible there is some sort of surge that is knocking out the timer
Also if this is damaging the timer is it permanent
Timer is working
A few time s in the past the lights (pretty sure its them) have tripped the circuit after bad weather but non of the lights needed replacing,they were all still working
Is it possible there is some sort of surge that is knocking out the timer
Also if this is damaging the timer is it permanent
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So what lights are fitted. Is it a small 40W tungsten bulb or a massive 1500W flood lamp? Or something in between?
The timer is clearly designed for a 16A resistive load with an inductive load it could cause arcing. I do find the grouping together of all florescent as being inductive or all tungsten as resistive rather blinkered as with a HF ballast a florescent is more like a resistive load and 12 volt tungsten with a non electronic transformer is more like an inductive load.
Clearly with LED it could be either but the current would be that low I would not think there would be a problem. I have used mechanical timers for years without problems so I think there is some thing lost here in the telling of the tail?
The timer is clearly designed for a 16A resistive load with an inductive load it could cause arcing. I do find the grouping together of all florescent as being inductive or all tungsten as resistive rather blinkered as with a HF ballast a florescent is more like a resistive load and 12 volt tungsten with a non electronic transformer is more like an inductive load.
Clearly with LED it could be either but the current would be that low I would not think there would be a problem. I have used mechanical timers for years without problems so I think there is some thing lost here in the telling of the tail?
Well
Most of that went over my head
There are seven outside lights
2 led brick lights which I have just had put in to replace the old ones as I thought they may be leaking but the problem was there before
5 energy saving screw fitting bulbs I think they are 11 and what I call curly to look at
Regards
Graham
Most of that went over my head
There are seven outside lights
2 led brick lights which I have just had put in to replace the old ones as I thought they may be leaking but the problem was there before
5 energy saving screw fitting bulbs I think they are 11 and what I call curly to look at
Regards
Graham
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We have been told that the lights now do not go on and off even if the dial is rotated through 24h manually. It seems that either the contacts of the timer (3 timers!) are not working (faulty or welded) or there is something fundamentally wrong with the wiring.
Kind Regards, John
Do you mean that everything is now working 'as intended'? I presume you didn't 'do anything' to result in a change?
That's certainly not enough to do any harm to the timer.
Kind Regards, John
No sorry
I was asked in previous post if the timer was working as in keeping the correct time
It was a reply to that.the timer is functioning as a clock but does not switch on and off
I did ask if the timer is"welded" is it permanently damaged and is there a way i can find out if this has happened
I was asked in previous post if the timer was working as in keeping the correct time
It was a reply to that.the timer is functioning as a clock but does not switch on and off
I did ask if the timer is"welded" is it permanently damaged and is there a way i can find out if this has happened
OK - I misunderstood.
With such a relatively small load (and the lights all working), I find it very hard to believe that the contacts could have got welded in one timer, let alone three.
You mentioned the "3-position switch" on the timer. Do I take it that the lights still remain on even if you switch that to the 'permanently off' position?
With test equipment, it would be easy to investigate this problem. In the absence of test equipment, I think what I would probably do would be to completely disconnect everything from the 'output' terminals of the timer and, instead, temporarily connect just a lamp of some sort to those terminals. If the same problem persisted (in terms of that lamp being permanently 'on', regardless of what the timer was doing), that would at least mean that the problem related to the timer, rather than the wiring - and then one could move on from there.
Kind Regards, John
Yes the lights remain on no matter what position the timer switch is at
Will get an electrician to try what you suggest by connecting a separate simple device to isolate the problem
Many thanks for your help
Kind regards
Graham
Will get an electrician to try what you suggest by connecting a separate simple device to isolate the problem
Many thanks for your help
Kind regards
Graham
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