What system problem could exist? A proper power flush was done. I might check the magnaclean, i ran the usp3 fot 35 mins yesterday on highest setting and no air came out after bleeding.
Why would you say its not powerful?
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Grundfos ups3 making noise
- Thread starter noddy997
- Start date
Why would you say its not powerful?
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I've no idea what system problem might exist, maybe none? your thread title said you have a noisy UPS3, is it likely that a one month old pump is faulty? and the last one was installed for < a year, the UPS3 can hardly be that poor.
I can only suggest again what I would do, I would buy a energy monitor which will give some very useful information, including any pump problems, but if you are intent to change the pump then I would not install a 5M one.
What do you mean by "Why would you say its not powerful?"
I can only suggest again what I would do, I would buy a energy monitor which will give some very useful information, including any pump problems, but if you are intent to change the pump then I would not install a 5M one.
What do you mean by "Why would you say its not powerful?"
A wilo is available in 6m too but with 1 year warranty.
Ups3 are rubbish, seen some reviews by some engineers saying they have been problematic. I've changed a few over the years, and this was before the power flush.
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The instructions are useless with Wilo, just photos. There are videos from wilo but they're not great.
When I put the ups 3 to constant speed 3 yesterday the bathroom towel radiator got hot. That's something else I mentioned on this forum that it has Been cold
When I put the ups 3 to constant speed 3 yesterday the bathroom towel radiator got hot. That's something else I mentioned on this forum that it has Been cold
Forget about the Wilo just now, I can tell you how to set it up, its one of the simplist to do.
IF you require 6.4M to heat all your rads including the towel rail then you are wasting your time with a 6M Wilo or DAB Evosta3 or similar.
The UPS3 is a giant "6M" pump, it will pump up to 19.2LPM at a constant 6.4M, the others will deliver well less than that, 8.5LPM at 6.0M.
The UPS3 pump power is 60 watts, the other two, 36/40 watts.
You will just have to figure this out logically.
Originally a 5M pump did the job, since the power wash, you are having problems, you don't know if it was done properly, the boiler heat exchanger may be partially blocked now, mag filter (which you are checking) etc, pump might be faulty or choked.
You can inspect the pump two ways, one, the proper way, is to isolate the boiler, shut the pump inlet/outlet valve, remove the 4 stud bolts and remove the pump head complete with impeller, (see below). Check for sludge in the pump body ports, then open say the pump inlet valve partially to check that you have a reasonable flow and flush 2 or 3 litres into a bucket or whatever, shut the inlet valve and repeat with the outlet valve.
Get a tie wrap and push it through each pump impeller vane (to prove clear) in the direction of the red arrow. ("Impeller rev1" photo)
If you are not happy to remove the pump head, just remove the whole pump (which you are certainly used to doing!) and repeat the flushing as above, you should be able to see the pump impeller by looking through the outlet (see "Pump Impeller" photo below) and maybe stick something through at least one impeller vane to prove clear, the pump impeller photo is from my own 18 year old Salmson, still running perfectly, I only changed it because I'm interested in pumps and installed the Wilo, it is now running a neighbours system whose pump packed up one Christmas a few years ago.
IF the above shows up nothing amiss, I would then, if not before, buy that energy monitor which will 100% tell you if you again? have a pump problem.
When reinstalling use rubber gaskets.
IF you require 6.4M to heat all your rads including the towel rail then you are wasting your time with a 6M Wilo or DAB Evosta3 or similar.
The UPS3 is a giant "6M" pump, it will pump up to 19.2LPM at a constant 6.4M, the others will deliver well less than that, 8.5LPM at 6.0M.
The UPS3 pump power is 60 watts, the other two, 36/40 watts.
You will just have to figure this out logically.
Originally a 5M pump did the job, since the power wash, you are having problems, you don't know if it was done properly, the boiler heat exchanger may be partially blocked now, mag filter (which you are checking) etc, pump might be faulty or choked.
You can inspect the pump two ways, one, the proper way, is to isolate the boiler, shut the pump inlet/outlet valve, remove the 4 stud bolts and remove the pump head complete with impeller, (see below). Check for sludge in the pump body ports, then open say the pump inlet valve partially to check that you have a reasonable flow and flush 2 or 3 litres into a bucket or whatever, shut the inlet valve and repeat with the outlet valve.
Get a tie wrap and push it through each pump impeller vane (to prove clear) in the direction of the red arrow. ("Impeller rev1" photo)
If you are not happy to remove the pump head, just remove the whole pump (which you are certainly used to doing!) and repeat the flushing as above, you should be able to see the pump impeller by looking through the outlet (see "Pump Impeller" photo below) and maybe stick something through at least one impeller vane to prove clear, the pump impeller photo is from my own 18 year old Salmson, still running perfectly, I only changed it because I'm interested in pumps and installed the Wilo, it is now running a neighbours system whose pump packed up one Christmas a few years ago.
IF the above shows up nothing amiss, I would then, if not before, buy that energy monitor which will 100% tell you if you again? have a pump problem.
When reinstalling use rubber gaskets.
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But the ups3 pumps for me have played up regardless of flush or not. Other engineers have reported this too
Other reviews have gone for wilo after bad experiences with ups3
Other reviews have gone for wilo after bad experiences with ups3
I couldn't really imagine two UPS3 pumps packing up in a year and a bit?, one is only a month old!!!, there are plenty of these pumps about running away for at least 5 years or more.
Its your decision but I would take the route I suggested, at least remove the pump and do the backflush and have a look into the pump and prove the impeller clear.
Did you buy these locally, why not just bring it back and demand a refund??.
Its your decision but I would take the route I suggested, at least remove the pump and do the backflush and have a look into the pump and prove the impeller clear.
Did you buy these locally, why not just bring it back and demand a refund??.
They have a year warranty though, that says it all tbh. Come on, old grundfos lasted 20-30 years. Then they made the usp 2 which was second generation and that wasn't great either
The low wattage of the wilo is about energy efficiency no?
I changed it in Dec because i thought new rads weren't heating up quick enough
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The UPS3 is just as efficient, if it was circulating 8.5LPM at a 6M head it would consume the same amount of power.
Its quite likely IMO that you have two perfectly working UPS3s which can be verified with a £20 energy meter.
They are working but the noise is becoming louder and unbearable.
How do you bleed the wilos? The wilos instructions aren't great as many have said this. Just photos but no words
I've heard stories that the UPS3 can fry boiler PCBs.
Bleeding: You just press the button on the front once and within 5 seconds it will do some fancy footwork like speeding the pump up and down for 10 minutes or so, if you press it twice it will do something similar after 5 secs, for 10 minutes, I've installed three or four (6M) for relations and didn't bother with it, when I install the pump I tighten up the inlet flange but let the outlet loose and crack open the inlet valve to get any air/water out, I then tighten up the outlet flange.
Setting the modes: the CC (fixed speed) modes I,II, III, in the middle (C1,C2, C3) will flash whichever one you've selected, C1 or C2 or C3, C1 is 2M, C2 is 3.8M and C2 is 6M, suggest C2 initially, if you turn the setting switch to the right (constant pressure or CP mode) of these CC modes, the selected head will flash for a few seconds and the display then changes to show the power in watts and also (now) the flow rate in m3/hr, each time you move it, even by a 0.1M increment it will again flash for a few seconds and then display the power/flowrate. Turning the selector switch to the left of the CC settings works the same way but you are now in proportional pressure, PP mode.
Whatever you are doing, either installing a new pump or removing/re installing a old one, ensure that you flush from both sides.
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The original A rated UPS2 definitely did some frying I believe, cured by a new cable with a suppressor.
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