Half height shower wall - what to construct with ?
- Thread starter Talay
- Start date
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OP,
1. You need to draw a full size plan view section.
2. Then extend the section view to include the tiles.
3. As above, use 4 x 2's - use them to make a frame with the base plate securely fixed into the joists below.
4. On either face insert ply pieces into the stud bays - the ply pieces to be accurately cut to prevent racking.
5. Use a vapour barrier then backer boards on the inside face of the frame, the top plate surface & jamb(s).
1. You need to draw a full size plan view section.
2. Then extend the section view to include the tiles.
3. As above, use 4 x 2's - use them to make a frame with the base plate securely fixed into the joists below.
4. On either face insert ply pieces into the stud bays - the ply pieces to be accurately cut to prevent racking.
5. Use a vapour barrier then backer boards on the inside face of the frame, the top plate surface & jamb(s).
That sort of wall, where it doesn't have a pillar up to the ceiling, must be strengthened like mad to prevent it bending. You've got to imagine that overweight visiting relative grabbing the end of it and hauling themselves into the shower.
If it flexes then it will break the seal between it and the shower tray, causing damp issues.
Screw down with large screws in pilot holes into the joists, not just the floorboards.
It would be better if there was a tiled pillar between its top and the ceiling, which needs to go through the ceiling and be securely bolted to a noggin between the ceiling joists. Nuts, bolts and crinkle washers all round. You will need a pillar anyway if you're having a door.
Glue, screw and brace the framework, go mad on it. You can't overdo it, the potential damage from underdoing it will be terrible.
If you have a cupboard as shown then make use of its rigidity by screwing it securely to the original wall and your new one.
If it flexes then it will break the seal between it and the shower tray, causing damp issues.
Screw down with large screws in pilot holes into the joists, not just the floorboards.
It would be better if there was a tiled pillar between its top and the ceiling, which needs to go through the ceiling and be securely bolted to a noggin between the ceiling joists. Nuts, bolts and crinkle washers all round. You will need a pillar anyway if you're having a door.
Glue, screw and brace the framework, go mad on it. You can't overdo it, the potential damage from underdoing it will be terrible.
If you have a cupboard as shown then make use of its rigidity by screwing it securely to the original wall and your new one.
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That's a photo off the interweb. It's possible there won't be a cupboard there. In fact I'd avoid built-in furniture in a bathroom.
Just brace and bolt the heck out of it!
But... if there's nothing there then there's probably also no need for the wall, just have a full-height glass panel.
More info needed!
Just brace and bolt the heck out of it!
But... if there's nothing there then there's probably also no need for the wall, just have a full-height glass panel.
More info needed!
Adding to previous answers...
If possible, extend the unsupported end of the stud wall down and fixed to the the joist below. You'll have to remove some floor to do this, or work underneath.
If it doesn't coincide with a floor joist, bridge between two joists with a chunky piece of timber, almost the same depth as the joist, and bolt it to that. Effectively you are treating it like a newel post on a staircase.
If possible, extend the unsupported end of the stud wall down and fixed to the the joist below. You'll have to remove some floor to do this, or work underneath.
If it doesn't coincide with a floor joist, bridge between two joists with a chunky piece of timber, almost the same depth as the joist, and bolt it to that. Effectively you are treating it like a newel post on a staircase.
If the base of the wall is at right angles to the joists then you could just drill and screw through the floorboards into the joists below.
If it's parallel to the joists and not on top of one then it would need a number of noggins between them.
It's definitely not a trivial thing, a lot more involved than just 4x2 and cement board! (add a load of glue and massive screws and bolts all over the place).
If it's parallel to the joists and not on top of one then it would need a number of noggins between them.
It's definitely not a trivial thing, a lot more involved than just 4x2 and cement board! (add a load of glue and massive screws and bolts all over the place).
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