It was tight to the wall, so 9mm gap now
Aaah, so it was initially done properly but it became loose.
Can you push it back to the wall?
If so, a couple of good wall plugs will secure it, then a bit of filling and paint to hide the screws.
 
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Aaah, so it was initially done properly but it became loose.
Can you push it back to the wall?
If so, a couple of good wall plugs will secure it, then a bit of filling and paint to hide the screws.
That was my first thought, but if I drill through the handrail and push a plug in, there will then be a big hole where the screw will go....so it won't hold - doesn't the plug need to be in before the handrail is attached?
 
That was my first thought, but if I drill through the handrail and push a plug in, there will then be a big hole where the screw will go....so it won't hold - doesn't the plug need to be in before the handrail is attached?

Not necessarily. The lower part of the ceiling, you may you may be able to screw in to timber (ideally slightly above the angle bead), and perhaps higher up as well.

Edit- if you were dealing with brick walls, you could drill a 5mm hole and tap red plugs through the timber.
 
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Thanks. Other half is liking the trim idea best atm, so probably go with that unless anyone on here can think of a reason not to?
 
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That was my first thought, but if I drill through the handrail and push a plug in, there will then be a big hole where the screw will go....so it won't hold - doesn't the plug need to be in before the handrail is attached?
The screw heads are bigger than the plug.
Use duopower 8mm plugs and 6mm screws. They have a pozi 3 head and will not fall into the hole.
Thanks. Other half is liking the trim idea best atm, so probably go with that unless anyone on here can think of a reason not to?
The handrail needs to be secured otherwise in a few months you will need a bigger trim.
 
Have I got this right - when you say "wall"" it's the bit when the stairs go past the ceiling/floor between upstairs & downstairs, right?
In other words, not very long - couple of feet.
I'd just get a bit of knot free softwood slightly too thick, hand plane a slight angle on it to make a wedge, and tap it in with glue. Sorted.
It's bound to move a bit but if it starts under compression you stand half a chance. You cold put a cavity fixing of some sort through the lot. Get it right and the gaps should be tiny so just a bit of decorator's filler should be fine.
 
Have I got this right - when you say "wall"" it's the bit when the stairs go past the ceiling/floor between upstairs & downstairs, right?
yes, that’s right (photo attached)
 

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I still can’t understand how a plug of sorts would work. As if screwing like that, won’t the handrail just be relying on the screw head to stabilise it? The thread won’t touch the wood, and will barely touch the plug. I’m not sure about that one. I don’t think the rail will come out any more than it is now anyways as it’s now in line with the posts at top and bottom - so a bigger trim shouldn’t be needed further down the line. Before, it was slightly blended inwards toward the ‘wall’ where it had been caulked.
 
I still can’t understand how a plug of sorts would work. As if screwing like that, won’t the handrail just be relying on the screw head to stabilise it? The thread won’t touch the wood, and will barely touch the plug. I’m not sure about that one. I don’t think the rail will come out any more than it is now anyways as it’s now in line with the posts at top and bottom - so a bigger trim shouldn’t be needed further down the line. Before, it was slightly blended inwards toward the ‘wall’ where it had been caulked.
How do you think any wooden piece (included staircases) are fixed to the wall?
Watch some YouTube videos to convince yourself.
You did say that it was flat against the wall when it was built, so naturally it must've moved.
 

This is roughly what you need to do.
Of course you'll need a bit of countersik to accommodate the screw head so it sits below wood surface, ready to be filled and painted.
 
Yes it's only the head of a screw which pulls. Then friction between the parts stops them moving. try a couple of screws to pull the rail to the "wall" and see if the rail looks bowed. If so, insert slim fillet of wood. I'd guess the "wall" piece of wood is plenty thick enough to make a good fixing. Otherwise a cavity fixing would do it.

Johnny2007 - I don't see him having blocks - that's a wood finished underfloor void. It might turn out to be a skinny bit of ply.

OP -

Johnny's fixing might do if you know the depths. Otherwise this variety where the cone pulls up as far as necessary:

1705573769041.jpeg

If you know the thickness then a brolly fixing might do ok, they come witha variety of plain lengths
1705573301315.jpeg



otherwise one of these. Careful, the wings will fall into the void if you let them


1705572828743.jpeg

They all mean large holes. If you can't move the rail out of the way the brolly's flange will end up buried in the rail, and you'll need a washer for the lower one.
 
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Really appreciated all your help with this, great community, so thanks. Thought I could lift a floor board to see if there's anything to attach to, but it's not accessible. I don't know the thickness of the plasterboard and the worry with using the last one above would be that it pulls the plaster off over time. Other half is set on the trim idea now anyway, so I'm off to go find something slim to stick to the wall. If it does turn out that I need a bigger bit later on down the line, then I may well try one of the above fixers. Cheers
 
As no-one else has suggested it, I'd squirt half a tube of that wonder Stixall stuff in that gap, use a length of timber across from the other wall to lightly tension the rail till it goes off. I don't know what it's like for a finish so maybe a trim on top as suggested.
 

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