We have an oven with old setup where the switch is on the wall behind the hob. I believe this is no longer allowed. We need a new oven. What are the options for the installation? If I get the shop delivering to install, will they refuse? Will an electrician?
Having an electric oven installed, has switch on wall behind
- Thread starter Jayd S
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Is the switch more than 300mm from the hot surface? You can have the isolator in the cupboard adjacent if you want.
You dont actually need a switch
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Indeed. An electrician could remove the switch, join the two cables using the appropriate method. Then you could tile over.
Assuming that the cable runs in the correct zones.
Really?
I though it was a must.
So on a new kitchen, can we get rid of all those isolating switches?
Although, I know they can be in a cabinet now, so out of sight and making tiling a lot easier.
would it be possible to reroute the cable that supplies power to the switch and take it straight to the oven? then the old cable from switch to oven could be removed and the switch position tiled etc or if too much hassle just leave it where it is as it now now longer does anything. depending on the size of the switch a blanking plate could cover the old position
There is no regulation whatsoever that states that an isolation switch is needed for any kitchen appliance.
If you need to turn the power off for some reason you could just flip the MCB in the consumer unit off.
Thanks, I didn't know.
So all the isolating switches are only there for convenience.
Yes, for the convenience of being able to fully isolate a faulty appliance in order that the RCD that is being tripped by that faulty appliance can be reset and thus restore power to the circuit
Or maybe you consider getting tools and disconnecting cables from junction boxes is not a significant inconvenience.
The best way to fully isolate an appliance is to pull the plug. For a cooker (the only appliance that needs to be hardwired) flip it’s MCB.
(1) It may be difficult and/or time consuming to remove a plug from the socket if that socket is behind the appliance and the appliance is heavy.
(2) Most MCBs when tripped disconnect only the Live, they do not disconnect the Neutral
Leaving the Neutral connected means that if the appliance has a Neutral to Earth fault then the RCD will continue to trip when there is a load on other circuits protected by that RCD
It will need moving at some time but the urgency would be to restore power to the affected circuits by a reset of the RCD.
Element leaks ? Leaks from where to where ? Are these "element leaks" you refer to just leakage from Live to Neutral without any involvement of the metallic sheath of the elements affected.
Please think before you type
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