Hayter H1842 transmission belt replacement

[Burnerman]

Excellent result
Take a bow, LITL
John

 

[lostinthelight]

Excellent result
Take a bow, LITL
John

wouldnt be able to get back up at my age John

 

[Hobsini]

Ok, thanks - will check those things at the weekend.

Thanks again to you both for all your help with this.

 

[Burnerman]

LITL has your steering issues sorted, I think.....Ive had one machine with a bent steering quadrant which was a pain ( keep it greased) and numerous worn bushes just below the steering wheel, which doesnt make things tight.
Do check the oil level in the tank above the transmission ( if it has one), top up with 5/30 fully synthetic motor oil if necessary. Unfortunately thats all you can do to keep the hydrostatic transmission in good nick, some transmissions can be drained, some cant.
John

 

[Hobsini]

Hi, just getting back to this now after winter break. The mower now runs ok (although often requires a little carb cleaner spraying into carb when turning over!) but still have the following problems:
1. Drive belt slips off occasionally - have finally sourced the correct belt, I unfortunately broke the bar I’d struggled to get the belt past (mentioned in earlier posts) when fitting. Is this likely to be the reason the belt slips off? If so, not sure what I can do about this now.
2. Cutting deck won’t engage - I’ve had to rewire the clutch as part of all of this; could this be down to incorrect wiring?
3. Steering is still stiff but want to focus on 1 & 2 before looking at this again as it’s sort of irrelevant without the those sorted.

Any ideas?

 

[lostinthelight]

1/ The bar stops the belt being thrown off . If you can drill through the engine mounting plate and fix a long coach bolt or the like ,with the head cut off it should be a suitable replacement
2/ There's usually safety interlocks that stops the clutch engaging ,seat switch, parking brake etc. Try direct wiring with belt off to test

 

[Burnerman]

The belt guide bars are essential......when the belt isnt under tension it can flap about a bit and often flies off.
Regarding the clutch, apply 12v across its wires.....does it engage?
John

 

[Hobsini]

Thanks - will try at the weekend.

Re: coach bolt - why with the head cut off?

 

[Burnerman]

I guess any smooth shanked bolt would do, cutting the head off means no edges for the belt to abrade.
John

 

[Hobsini]

Hi, sorry for another question on this but carriage bolts seem to be sort of the opposite way round to what I need (possibly). If I drill a hole through the mounting plate then won't I need the thread at that end and the smooth part at the other end? If not, how will it fasten with the nut? I found suitable bolts in terms of dimensions but not sure how they will attach without getting one which is fully threaded.

 

[JohnD]

without getting one which is fully threaded.

A fully threaded bolt is called a machine screw. Screws are available that are not fully threaded. You want a bolt. What are the dimensions of the thing you want? Will it have a nut at each end? Have you got a photo of the old part?

 

[lostinthelight]

 

[JohnD]

so it's a bar, of indeterminate length and diameter, fixed through a green part (steel plate?) adjacent to an unidentified yellow thing.

 

[lostinthelight]

so it's a bar, of indeterminate length and diameter, fixed through a green part (steel plate?) adjacent to an unidentified yellow thing.

 

[JohnD]

can't see those fixing nuts.