The programmer is at HW only. the hot pipe is indicated on the picture below.
I have not had HW for 5 days. I changed the diverter valve yesterdayWhen you say slacken the nut on the cylinder base return do you mean at point of entry on the cylinder?
Heating OK but No Hot Water
- Thread starter dcaraher
- Start date
The programmer is at HW only. the hot pipe is indicated on the picture below.
I have not had HW for 5 days. I changed the diverter valve yesterdayWhen you say slacken the nut on the cylinder base return do you mean at point of entry on the cylinder?
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yes at base of cylinder if not to seized etc. but do with hw off
i know that the top pipe (inlet) is hot.
but the bottom return is hot further down isn't it near the ex tank
that bypass pipe at base of the valve is that pipe hot ?
your pipework is so confusing .
is that a bleed valve i can see on the return near the red ex tank?
i know that the top pipe (inlet) is hot.
but the bottom return is hot further down isn't it near the ex tank
that bypass pipe at base of the valve is that pipe hot ?
your pipework is so confusing .
is that a bleed valve i can see on the return near the red ex tank?
Firstly thank you for staying with this one you have been superb.
Yes the bottom return is hot after where i indicated with a series of lines.
The bypass at the bottom of the Valve ( Thermostatic) is hot.
There is a valve with a red end that you can see at the right of the picture. I think this is something to do with the expansion tank. This area is also hot.
I am a little concerned with loosening the nut at the bottom of the cylinder, what is the potential for a major flood of water?
leave the cylinder then it can cause problems if old install.
that bypass thermostatic its hot at the bottom then what cold down the the other hot pipe ? is this just heat convection.
what happens if you alter that setting ?
i can see the vent with the red top but i can see a brass one near the red ex tank thats a thumb screw vent.
that bypass thermostatic its hot at the bottom then what cold down the the other hot pipe ? is this just heat convection.
what happens if you alter that setting ?
i can see the vent with the red top but i can see a brass one near the red ex tank thats a thumb screw vent.
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I ahve tried to indicate the valve I think you mean.
Where you think I could try loosening, and where the pipe is cold to.
Where you think I could try loosening, and where the pipe is cold to.
as said if your not happy leave cylinder nut.
at the end of the cold section to the left is another thumb screw vent.
at the end of the cold section to the left is another thumb screw vent.
seco services";p="1070021 said:as said if your not happy leave cylinder nut.
at the end of the cold section to the left is another thumb screw vent.
Do you mean this one I fyes I have taken the dustcap off and there seems to be a sealed top, very similar to the type you get on a new tube of toothpaste ( sorry for the very poor comparison)
yes thats a thumb screw vent. its all brass and either hex top or knurled edge.
are you telling me the top won't come off ? a pair of pliers as that will unscrew.
are you telling me the top won't come off ? a pair of pliers as that will unscrew.
Wow, what a lot of posts in a short time. I go out to fix just one new boiler and there are two pages more!
This thermostat in the loft on the cylinder is a new addition to the situation.
It seems very likely to me that the pin under the thermostatic element is seized down.
The engineer should have immediately focussed on that ( assuming he was advised that you have a loft full of interesting bits ).
Remove the thewrmostatic head, its not clear to me but on close inspection you should see if there is a ring to unscrew or a clamp the loosen a screw on a periferal clamp.
That should reveal a pin which I strongly suspect has jammed down.
Try pushing it down further repeatedly about ten times with a metal object. That might free it up and cause it to move up about 8 mm.
If that does not work then gingerly pull it up with pliars. It shoudd be safe to do that but just a few of them have a double shaft and in a very few cases the pin can come completely out and water spray out. Unlikely but be prepared for almost anything in these situations!
Do it quick and you will have a shower tonight. Thats a hot one!
Tony
This thermostat in the loft on the cylinder is a new addition to the situation.
It seems very likely to me that the pin under the thermostatic element is seized down.
The engineer should have immediately focussed on that ( assuming he was advised that you have a loft full of interesting bits ).
Remove the thewrmostatic head, its not clear to me but on close inspection you should see if there is a ring to unscrew or a clamp the loosen a screw on a periferal clamp.
That should reveal a pin which I strongly suspect has jammed down.
Try pushing it down further repeatedly about ten times with a metal object. That might free it up and cause it to move up about 8 mm.
If that does not work then gingerly pull it up with pliars. It shoudd be safe to do that but just a few of them have a double shaft and in a very few cases the pin can come completely out and water spray out. Unlikely but be prepared for almost anything in these situations!
Do it quick and you will have a shower tonight. Thats a hot one!
Tony
Tony, welcome back, when you are talking about the thermostatic head do you mean this one. If it is as you describe jammed down what would you expect teh pipe going into the cylinder to be Hot or Cold, because it is very hot.
Let me know and I am willing to try anything. Thank you for your help.
if its shut it would be cold yours isn't.
Tony & Seco, Latest update because I know you are dying to hear
When I went up to check the thermostatic valve, which by the way is not jammed down, I heard a hissing sound coming from the valve indicated below.
The valve had a screw in the face which said loosen to adjust,I loosened the screw and the noise stopped, but as a bonus teh out pipe from the cylinder now seems to be getting warm, too early to see if I have hot water but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I will update you later.
Many thanks for all your help it has been much appreciated.
Thats an auto bypass valve.
Closing it will give more pump rpressure to overcome resistance int eh circuit.
Seco, contrary to expectation the output pipe can feel hot even when there is no flow as a result of heat conduction.
The only test for a flow is when the return is warm.
If closing the auto bypass created some flow the either the thermostatic valce is mostly closed or the heating coil is mostly blocked.
I am assuming the system worked originally and then stopped!
Tony
Closing it will give more pump rpressure to overcome resistance int eh circuit.
Seco, contrary to expectation the output pipe can feel hot even when there is no flow as a result of heat conduction.
The only test for a flow is when the return is warm.
If closing the auto bypass created some flow the either the thermostatic valce is mostly closed or the heating coil is mostly blocked.
I am assuming the system worked originally and then stopped!
Tony
if its getting through it should be ok now. airlock, thats a bypass valve.
can't see what the thermostatic valve the white one is for anyway.
can't see what the thermostatic valve the white one is for anyway.
Its a temperature controller based on a thermostatic rad valve with a remote phial on the capillary tube that can be seen in the picture.
When it reaches the set temperature the flow is diverted to the return.
Drayton make one but that one seems to be a Honeywell or some other make.
Tony
When it reaches the set temperature the flow is diverted to the return.
Drayton make one but that one seems to be a Honeywell or some other make.
Tony
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