heatline c24 intermittant hot water..help
- Thread starter gobert
- Start date
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I am told that the new Biasi alloy pot type do still have a stainless water pipe inside.
It would be interesting to know what improvement in heat transfer results from that baffle. First one I have seen in a small boiler HE.
Tony
It would be interesting to know what improvement in heat transfer results from that baffle. First one I have seen in a small boiler HE.
Tony
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Thanks again
he defo checked impellers..thats all i can say, not shure what checks.
hopefully the flush/clean will happen thursday, i will mention the burner pressure, the diverter valve too etc.....
Ill let all now the out come..fingers crossed.
he defo checked impellers..thats all i can say, not shure what checks.
hopefully the flush/clean will happen thursday, i will mention the burner pressure, the diverter valve too etc.....
Ill let all now the out come..fingers crossed.
UPDATE
have had the sytem trerated with x100 to break down deposite mainly in main exchange as we beleived this was causing the hot water to cut in and out..as some will no after a lot of time and parts we came to this action..
system ran clean and we put it through each rad....
so were on to a clean (as poss before powerflush) system
the c.h now works at med to high levels with no cutting out
hot water still the same, well fires for a few seconds longer
so we removed c.h sensor agin to resume to warm water levels with no cut out.....
We now belve its a fault or magor blockage in diverter valve..
ANY IDEAS
hot water seems to cut out on what ever setting..but c.h seems fine suggestion...diverter aint fully opening when on hot water,,thus making main exchange heat up too quickly and then c.h sensor cuts boiler out till it cools..!!!
have had the sytem trerated with x100 to break down deposite mainly in main exchange as we beleived this was causing the hot water to cut in and out..as some will no after a lot of time and parts we came to this action..
system ran clean and we put it through each rad....
so were on to a clean (as poss before powerflush) system
the c.h now works at med to high levels with no cutting out
hot water still the same, well fires for a few seconds longer
so we removed c.h sensor agin to resume to warm water levels with no cut out.....
We now belve its a fault or magor blockage in diverter valve..
ANY IDEAS
hot water seems to cut out on what ever setting..but c.h seems fine suggestion...diverter aint fully opening when on hot water,,thus making main exchange heat up too quickly and then c.h sensor cuts boiler out till it cools..!!!
Acids are best to treat a blocked HE but if its alloy it usually has to be X800.
X100 is an inhibitor.
If your engineer really used X100 then he has no idea what he is doing.
I feel very tired at helping someone who has such a poor idea of what he is doing but is still getting paid.
Tony
X100 is an inhibitor.
If your engineer really used X100 then he has no idea what he is doing.
I feel very tired at helping someone who has such a poor idea of what he is doing but is still getting paid.
Tony
it mite not of been...it was brown and did see some x100 nearby
any way system did run clean either way after!!!
I think this proves this is a rare and tricky fault for 2/3 engineers still not able to come up with a fault diagnosis as yet!!!
so i assume a diverter valve has never been changed here for a hot water fault!!!
What should i do...keep getting people in , change everty part in the boiler. its now a case of a lot of £££ wasted. so turninng to a forum and calling on experience may save some £££
treatment cost £50 so was worth the try. mates ,mate a engineer who done it .... 3 hours work
he and every one believed its a blockage.. the plan was to clear up system and main exchange at same time, still no difference, but heating runs well and dont cut out, yet change to hot water and over heats.. im noooo engineer but other than a diverter valve/motor theres nothing else...... (c.h would overheat the main exchange if was horrifcally blocked,)
how can you test the valve without paying for a new one or loads£££ in labour..then to find out its still not that...
to be fair ive had a lot of critisisim of engineers i have used but no one has come close to a alternitve or poss fault..(again hard from a forum and not being present i appreciate that) also no one has come across this fault before!!!!!!
any way system did run clean either way after!!!
I think this proves this is a rare and tricky fault for 2/3 engineers still not able to come up with a fault diagnosis as yet!!!
so i assume a diverter valve has never been changed here for a hot water fault!!!
What should i do...keep getting people in , change everty part in the boiler. its now a case of a lot of £££ wasted. so turninng to a forum and calling on experience may save some £££
treatment cost £50 so was worth the try. mates ,mate a engineer who done it .... 3 hours work
he and every one believed its a blockage.. the plan was to clear up system and main exchange at same time, still no difference, but heating runs well and dont cut out, yet change to hot water and over heats.. im noooo engineer but other than a diverter valve/motor theres nothing else...... (c.h would overheat the main exchange if was horrifcally blocked,)
how can you test the valve without paying for a new one or loads£££ in labour..then to find out its still not that...
to be fair ive had a lot of critisisim of engineers i have used but no one has come close to a alternitve or poss fault..(again hard from a forum and not being present i appreciate that) also no one has come across this fault before!!!!!!
Hi Guys did you ever get this fault resolved as my friend has the same problem, i have spoke with Heatline tech and they say it could be one of the 3 heat exchangers in the boiler, the main one the recuperator or the plate hex.
I was leaning towards the Plate Hex.
The temp diffs on this one are correct at about 11%
The Dhw temp rise is only about 25c but every now and then it goes quite hot.
I have advised him to take out cover and then call it in as a breakdown as part swapping as Heatline say can be very expensive.
Thanks
JJ
I was leaning towards the Plate Hex.
The temp diffs on this one are correct at about 11%
The Dhw temp rise is only about 25c but every now and then it goes quite hot.
I have advised him to take out cover and then call it in as a breakdown as part swapping as Heatline say can be very expensive.
Thanks
JJ
what a living nightmare...
i got a new boiler glow worm beta com..same boiler, whiped it off swapped it..got gas engineer to commision..job done 465 all in as he felt sorry for the prelonged agony and miss diagnosis.. got boiler at trade
we will never know fault..no one did...!!!! but was either main or condensing exchange or what ever...ta
i got a new boiler glow worm beta com..same boiler, whiped it off swapped it..got gas engineer to commision..job done 465 all in as he felt sorry for the prelonged agony and miss diagnosis.. got boiler at trade
we will never know fault..no one did...!!!! but was either main or condensing exchange or what ever...ta
I had the same problem with c24 boiler, set the controls to hot water only all red lights lit up i.e. maximum temprature indicated boiler cold would not start up when hot water in sink switched on. Then setting the controls to HW+CH boiler starts up radiators hot all ok until the hot water tap in sink switched on boiler gas cuts out. The fix removed plug from DHW sensor bottom left handside, front indicator panel all red lights go out to indicate temp not to high and DHW light flashes to indicate there is aproblem with this DHW sensor of course its unpluged. boiler now starts up ok dosen't cut out hot water on demand, why is the man messing about with the ch sensor when its the hot water thats the problem.... The engineer you got is a dud everything explained
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