Terryplumb, I didn't understand what you wanted me to do at that time now I understood and opened the box it needed resetting none the wiser why the reset button was up regardless I have done it now. I will give it 15/20min and see if hot water comes up. Many thanks for all your help guys. Hope I will be able to return the favour somehow. I am good at Computer hardware/software trouble shooting if you need any help ....
Heeeelp!!! Central Heating works fine but NO hot water and the pressure gauge show high!
- Thread starter Amore
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Fingers crossed ,you may get a hot bath later !!! Or is it shower !
Where is the rest of the pipework?
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If you didn't get hot water after two hours ,the immersion heater isn't working. To state the obvious ,there should be a switch for turning the supply on/ off ,where is it and is it on ? Is the dial on the stat set to the max position ? If answer is YES ,you will need electric testing equipment ,like a multimeter ,to establish why its not working.
D
durhamplumber
No.it doesn't.Can't afford to pay call out but happy to pay per-job once I know if I can afford it. If that makes sense
your 3 port valve, is showing that your controls are set to central heating only, the little black indicator tells you what position the valve is in, there is a manual lever on one end of the valve , slide this across and lock it into the manual position and switch the heating on and you will get a tank of hot water
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Well spotted Ian
It's an unvented cylinder (that have more onerous installation requirements due to their potential safety issues) and by the looks of it has been bodged in. I'm not sure it's sensible to give any further advice other than to call out a suitably qualified engineer to the sort the mess out. Defeating the controls in order to obtain hot water due to lack of funds...Hmm
When I had my system converted to unvented, I had a brand new 3 port valve that I had as a spare for the old setup. I asked if they would fit that when converting the pipework. The engineer said you shouldn’t use a 3 port valve on an unvented system and said I had to have two singles. I don’t know why he said that but I took his advice and let him get on with it. Was he just spinning me a line?
No, they were telling the truth.
A 3 port valve is always open, and by default is open to the hot water cylinder. Therefore nothing to stop the cylinder being heated in the event of a failure.
If a cylinder is fitted to a 3 port valve, there should be an additional 2 port valve after it and before the cylinder, to ensure that the flow of water is stopped if something fails (2 port valves are closed by default). Some cylinders are supplied with the extra 2 port valve.
A more likely choice is to install the system as S plan, with 2 separate 2 port valves (or more if there are multiple heating zones).
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