Help! £1000 for Underfloor Heating, need to decide by 8am!
- Thread starter trish1400
- Start date
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Looks like they were done before we filled the cavity in the old bit. Might redo them later and see what difference it makes.
The overlay is 10mm tube @ 100mm centres.
Were you cold the other week? Or was that flask you pilfered keeping your Northern blood warm?
Yes, my flow rates were set up to be a bit higher than the norm. I also have 2 pairs of flow & returns curled up in the ceiling just in case I was off. Been itching for a proper winter mind you
Remember also, I have that top secret control system
The overlay is 10mm tube @ 100mm centres.
Were you cold the other week? Or was that flask you pilfered keeping your Northern blood warm?
Yes, my flow rates were set up to be a bit higher than the norm. I also have 2 pairs of flow & returns curled up in the ceiling just in case I was off. Been itching for a proper winter mind you
Remember also, I have that top secret control system
They were the calcs. (edit overlap BTW).
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Whys that?
Well the plumber had a baby last night! So he didn't make it this morning but sent his deputy instead - he was helpful but I don't think has had as much experience so couldn't really advise me.
They've got plenty of other stuff to be getting on with though so they've given me an extension on the decision until Wednesday! Eek!
Ohh - just noticed you've been posting this morning! Thanks - I'll digest them later (I'm at work now - just wanted to give you an update).
So he didn't make it this morning but sent his deputy instead - he was helpful but I don't think has had as much experience so couldn't really advise me.They've got plenty of other stuff to be getting on with though so they've given me an extension on the decision until Wednesday! Eek!
Ohh - just noticed you've been posting this morning! Thanks - I'll digest them later (I'm at work now - just wanted to give you an update).
You really have all the information that you need to make a decision now.
You will get more than adequate heat output using lino from a standard UFH installation which is usually about 100w/m². I only mentioned that it is possible to get more but that should not be needed in your case with a new extension designed to current standards.
UFH will be fine as long as you remember that it will have to be on 24 hrs a day with only a small setback overnight and when you are out. Not any problem to program. The small setback will ensure it comes back up to the required temperature without the long delay associated will heating up the floor slab from cold.
Tony
You will get more than adequate heat output using lino from a standard UFH installation which is usually about 100w/m². I only mentioned that it is possible to get more but that should not be needed in your case with a new extension designed to current standards.
UFH will be fine as long as you remember that it will have to be on 24 hrs a day with only a small setback overnight and when you are out. Not any problem to program. The small setback will ensure it comes back up to the required temperature without the long delay associated will heating up the floor slab from cold.
Tony
I'd have a slight concern that 75mm of insulation wasn't very much - sure it meets building regs, and in a standard rad-heated house increasing the floor insulation has only a negligible effect on heating costs..
..but remember that in this case your floor is your radiator, and the only thing stopping the heat disappearing into the ground is the insulation. A 75mm slab of screed will also have quite a thermal mass so youre going to be looking to heat it continuously - make sure the rest of the insulation in this extension is up to scratch and really work on sealing all gaps and draughts so the generally lower temp that it runs at still realises a comfortable room
..but remember that in this case your floor is your radiator, and the only thing stopping the heat disappearing into the ground is the insulation. A 75mm slab of screed will also have quite a thermal mass so youre going to be looking to heat it continuously - make sure the rest of the insulation in this extension is up to scratch and really work on sealing all gaps and draughts so the generally lower temp that it runs at still realises a comfortable room
You rightly point out that the floor surface is the radiator but the fact that some (more) of the heat goes into the ground if inadequately insulated doesn't affect the ability of the system to heat the room...it just increases the losses for sizing the boiler.
The old part of my house has a 200mm solid slab straight onto earth.
Below is a thermal picture of the side passage of the house. You can see where the old and the new meet. The new is built to 2012 regs (certainly no more)
Ignore the actually temp figures - emissivity settings are a tricky mistress.
Below is a thermal picture of the side passage of the house. You can see where the old and the new meet. The new is built to 2012 regs (certainly no more)
Ignore the actually temp figures - emissivity settings are a tricky mistress.
You rightly point out that the floor surface is the radiator but the fact that some (more) of the heat goes into the ground if inadequately insulated doesn't affect the ability of the system to heat the room...it just increases the losses for sizing the boiler.
It's an extension.. Boiler exists. Or are you proposing to replace it?
I still think your argument makes about as much sense as recommending a doubly oversized boiler running at full chat and leaving the windows open all year round to ensure the house doesn't get too hot.. In an age when the gas bill is a concern, this makes no sense
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