Help please.. plaster or render needed?

[dontbelieveawordofit]

Cheers is dry lining the same as dot and dab?

yes

 

[Nige F]

it does actually look like something is leaking in the corner.

Looks like an original lead main coming in there

 

[markyyyyyy]

Thank you for the replies.

Just a couple of follow up questions if possible:

1. Do i put the chemical DPC into the internal bricks or on the external bricks?
2. Do i put the DPC at the lowest possible course (drilling into the mortar lines)
3. I have some tanking slurry. Would an alternative be to slurry the damp wall up to 1200mm high and then dot and dab the whole lot, over the slurry? I would then leave a 1cm gap between the wall and floor to ensure that the moisture can be removed from the dot and dab, preventing condensation build up

Thank you

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

dpc in the internal .
the lowest cement bed . 4” apart and 3/4 way through the bed.
I wouldnt bond a pb to tanking , unless it was an insulated board, and NOT using drywall adhesive.
reason :- no suction and no way for the adhesive to dry out , especially this time of year.
bond your insulated pb to external walls using low expansion , fill and fix foam.
or better still tank the external walls and batten and board.
and you need at least an inch gap between the board and floor.

 

[markyyyyyy]

dpc in the internal .
the lowest cement bed . 4” apart and 3/4 way through the bed.
I wouldnt bond a pb to tanking , unless it was an insulated board, and NOT using drywall adhesive.
reason :- no suction and no way for the adhesive to dry out , especially this time of year.
bond your insulated pb to external walls using low expansion , fill and fix foam.
or better still tank the external walls and batten and board.
and you need at least an inch gap between the board and floor.

thanks again for your reply

i have never used insulated plasterboard - is it insulated on both sides of the board? If not, then which side needs to be facing the inside of the room?

In regards to your idea of batten and board, would i drill through the taking slurry to secure the timber to the brickwork - if so, would this possibly provide an avenue for moisture?

Would i have to install a vapour barrier?

I'll have a think about what approach to do - there are loads of pipes as you can see which might be a pain to batten around?

Would you use 3x2 or 4x2 timber? Treated timber i assume?

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

a 2x1 treated timber would do . you don’t have huge amounts of damp so drilling the tanking shouldn’t be a problem in your situation .
the board is insulated one side which faces the wall.

 

[markyyyyyy]

a 2x1 treated timber would do . you don’t have huge amounts of damp so drilling the tanking shouldn’t be a problem in your situation .
the board is insulated one side which faces the wall.

cool, thanks.

 

[markyyyyyy]

Just had another couple of thoughts if I can pick your brains:

1. I've heard that some people use a sand/cement slurry. Can you confirm that tanking slurry is ok to use on the walls, and that the low expansion foam adhesive will be ok to use on the tanking slurry to fix the insulated plasterboard?

2. On the small section of wall in the door recess (where I will plasterboard up to door frame), insulation board will be too thick. I'm assuming normal 12.5mm plasterboard would be used here, on top of the tanking as per the rest?

Cheers

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

you can use sand / cement slurry but it must contain sbr or waterproof pva. or it won’t be waterproof.
tank it and try a test area with the adhesive you intend to use first. just to be sure.
if thats all that will fit in the reveal, then you have no choice. although it may act as a cold bridge and condensate.

 

[markyyyyyy]

Hi - just had another thought. With regard to slurry, do i need to do it all the way up the wall to ceiling, or just to approx 1200mm high? Cheers

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

the whole external wall and 1200 internals

 

[markyyyyyy]

the whole external wall and 1200 internals

I am assuming you mean the kitchen side of the external wall, rather than the actual outside of the house?
I was hoping to keep it brick as is!

Or do you mean to tank the whole wall (kitchen side) of the external wall of house?

 

[markyyyyyy]

Just a couple more questions if possible:

I have a large air vent that comes straight into the kitchen - (pic above) do i need to fill this air vent in? (considering i am tanking the internal wall). If so, what is the best way to go about filling in the large hole? Sand/Cement?

I also have a 40mm wide hole through the wall that the old kitchen sink waste pipe was in. I will probably be using a different hole that i drill myself for new kitchen. Once again, is this best to fill with sand\cement? Or should i use expanding foam and finish off with sand/cement on the internal/external side of house?

Cheers