HELP. Some sockets in flat losing power.

[johnnymac58]

Sorry, should have read more carefully, OK so your fuseboard is OK we will assume and the socket fizzes, the fizzing is the sound created by an electric arc either within the socket or in the immediate vacinity.

If you want to DIY I would first ensure power is off to the socket and then remove the two screws securing the faceplate, gently pull it forward, there will be red, black and green/yellow wires going into the back of it, look carefully for signs of scorching, not only on the socket but the wiring, especially where it passes through the metal backbox.

Replace the socket with a suitable type, wiring the same way - all reds to L all blacks to N all green/yel to earth (E), if the wiring is scorched see if there is enough slack to re-make the ends, otherwise B&Q sell heat shrinkable plastic sleeve and insulation tape that can be used (it's better to re-make though).

Re-Assemble and power up. You can buy a plug tester for about a fiver that tells you if you have wired it correctly.

will stress TURN OFF power before you do anything

Thanks Tony, i'll head to b+q tomorrow and get the relevant supplies to sort it out!

Thanks again for your help and advice!

All the other sockets in the flat are now back on and working fine, along with the shower pump.

 

[electronicsuk]

Sound like a loose connection at the toaster socket, check the tightness of all terminals at that socket (with power OFF at fuseboard) If it is supposed to be a ring and there is only one loose connection then the ring will be broken somewhere- not good.

Must stress that the above comment by skenk is very important. It would be unusual for the circuit to be a radial - much more likely it is supposed to be a ring, and therefore a break at one point in the circuit should not cause the power to multiple sockets to fail. The fact that you have two 30A fuses would support the theory that the circuit should indeed be a ring final.

I would strongly recommend you get the entire installation inspected by an electrician. Any problems found may best be fixed properly at the same time as your new kitchen is fitted, as chances are you will have to have a new consumer unit fitting if you plan to install any new circuits or move any sockets around during the refit.

 

[tonylec]

Well you're not using it so dump it (that will leave space for your new fuseboard when you get your renovations underway), call the electric board and get them to extract the second meter and timer, you are probably paying a rent on them!!

 

[Steve]

tonylec, they are estimated readings. its not unknown to be way out. though if they are estimating zero useage, it must have been actually zero for some time!

 

[johnnymac58]

Thanks for your help everyone!

I'm going to give the electric board a call tomorrow about the other meter and am in the process of checking all the sockets that all wires are tight and secure.

Going to replace all the sockets in the bedroom this week too to make double sure everything in there is ok!

Will get that socket in the kitchen replaced as a first point though.

 

[johnnymac58]

tonylec, they are estimated readings. its not unknown to be way out. though if they are estimating zero useage, it must have been actually zero for some time!

Just checked the readings from my last few bills and the meter itself.

It has not changed at all for over a year.

Worth having it removed? I take it I should call my Electricity provider to arrange?

 

[tonylec]

Probably, you are obviously not using it and by rights should have RCD protection for any new/replaced electrics you have done as you renovate, as modern consumer units are bigger than the one you have removing that meter and timer will give you more space and you may well pay a service charge for it somewhere along the line. Our local board don't charge for a removal, so yours may not either. If it were me i'd get rid of it.