Help with Drayton Wiring

[handaloo2]

Hey All, hoping to get me past the last hurdle of a Drayton Install Kit 1.

I currently have a 2 Zone system, however the upstairs zone valve has been opened by a plumber as I really didn't need two zones. 2 year old Ideal boiler.

Bought a Wiser Kit 1 and fitted it today. Images here

Based on what I'd read here and elsewhere, it seemed that the current wiring to the old programmer was SL, Live, Earth and Neutral were terminated into a block. So I threw in as follows:

N - Neutral grey cable
L - Brown cable
Looped a link from Live to 1 as per instructions
3 - Black cable

Although, when looking at the wiring centre, the black cable appeared to be neutral and grey sl, but when I attempted those the device wouldn't power on.

This was before realising that I had the zone valves and I had to take those into account.

Wanted to use add the hub where the programmer is, but if it makes more sense I'm happy to add some 4 core to the boiler and blank off thee old programmers.

What am I doing wrong?
How do I terminate the current programmers?

EDIT - Should also point out the video on the link I had the grey wire connected to 3 and it would error cycle a few times ,then disconnect from wifi and the heating would be permanently ON

Exact system as this post - but it's dead by the looks of it https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/replacing-danfoss-5000-with-drayton-wiser.598502/


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Link to images doesn’t work, can you upload on here by attaching files (bottom left of text box)?

 

[handaloo2]

Absolutely! - Done!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Absolutely! - Done!

Still nothing?

 

[handaloo2]

Oh weird. I'll attach them to this post.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Why do you have switch live in the off terminal (number 2)? Also have you decommissioned the existing thermostat, joined the wires or set to maximum? You have a link in the opentherm terminal at the boiler, not sure if it should be removed, however the cover on that boiler forms part of the combustion circuit (air intake) and should be checked for safety afterwards.

 

[handaloo2]

Tbh that was just one of the attempts I took the picture on.

Originally I'd installed it in 3 and had no luck so had attempted other configurations based on other forum posts.

Any advice on what I'm doing wrong wiring wise?

I haven't touched the opentherm wires and I'm using the wires from the existing programmer. The upstairs one is still connected but not being used.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Definitely Wiser kit 1? Can you post a photo of the back of it? (Had it recently with another member, they thought they had purchased a kit 1 but was a kit 2).

 

[handaloo2]

Sure thing!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Ok, definitely a kit 1. The wiring at the boiler end might come from fcu, which will be linked to the wiring center. So you’ll need to join the wires up at the thermostats or set to maximum to ascertain that the Wiser works 1st. Make sure you move the wire in terminal 2 (Wiser) to terminal 3, see if that works. If it does, we can guid you further if you want to decommission the thermostats.

 

[handaloo2]

Yup, it works. But it does what I mentioned in my OP. Cycles for a while, then switches the heating on permanently and loses connection to the thermostat so I can't turn it off.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

That could be the opentherm link causing it to be on all the time, not for dropping out though.

 

[handaloo2]

Ok, I'll try and remove the opentherm and see where that gets us

 

[handaloo2]

Same result unfortunately

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Same result unfortunately

View attachment 315356

If it’s dropping out, then could be a faulty unit, might be worth contacting Drayton?