OK. Not leaking from the nut on the rad side...it's the screw that controls the isolating valve that's leaking. Turning it to off slightly minimises the flow. Flow being a better word than drip.
Help with leaking isolation valve on CH pipe
- Thread starter jso
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OK. Not leaking from the nut on the rad side...it's the screw that controls the isolating valve that's leaking. Turning it to off slightly minimises the flow. Flow being a better word than drip.
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Are you talking about the screw in the centre of the ISO valve, that you turn to shut the valve off, that's where the water is coming from? If so then you may be able to turn it to a certain point where the water loss is minimised. Sometimes twisting it back and forward can get it to seal up a bit better but unfortunately it can also make it worse, that's a suck it and see.
This is the primary reason ISO valves like this shouldn't be used on CH pipework, they're not designed for it.
Is you system sealed? Is it a combi boiler with a pressure gauge? If you shut off all the rads and then crack the nut on the ISO valve and release all the pressure from the system then you will be able to snatch that valve out with minimal loss of water. Then change the ISO valve and re-pressurise the system
This is the primary reason ISO valves like this shouldn't be used on CH pipework, they're not designed for it.
Is you system sealed? Is it a combi boiler with a pressure gauge? If you shut off all the rads and then crack the nut on the ISO valve and release all the pressure from the system then you will be able to snatch that valve out with minimal loss of water. Then change the ISO valve and re-pressurise the system
YES. The screw in the centre of the ISO valve.
Its a gravity fed system, so no chance to release the pressure from the system in that way as kindly suggested.
Should that screw be able to go round and round, which this one does? I thought they were supposed to be 1/4 turn jobs?
My original question was: is there anything that would stick to a already dripping fitting to temporarily seal it up?
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Apperciate the request for a photo, but not sure it would tell you much more than I can with words.
Control screw in centre of ISO valve is leaking (quite profusely now).
yes some ISO valves spin 360Deg. You need to go up into the loft and bung the small tank up there and you can then shut off the rads and swap the valve out.
You could bodge it, is the slotted section flush with the valve or is it raised? If flush then a jubilee clip and a thick rubber washer and use that to compress the washer onto the valve. If it raised then there are sealing putty's you can get but never found one that works properly TBH.
You could bodge it, is the slotted section flush with the valve or is it raised? If flush then a jubilee clip and a thick rubber washer and use that to compress the washer onto the valve. If it raised then there are sealing putty's you can get but never found one that works properly TBH.
As the pressure is low you might be able to seal or slow the leak with....
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-ama...lantsadhesives-_-rubbertape&_requestid=178276
The key is to stretch the tape such that it can then amalgamate and seal.
If you've sufficient height from the floor you could tie string tightly round the pipe and lead it into a tray to "drain" the water.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-ama...lantsadhesives-_-rubbertape&_requestid=178276
The key is to stretch the tape such that it can then amalgamate and seal.
If you've sufficient height from the floor you could tie string tightly round the pipe and lead it into a tray to "drain" the water.
You might be lucky... You could get a replacement ballofix in a Christmas cracker at the dinner table tomorrow!
Ho Ho Ho... rrible things
Ho Ho Ho... rrible things
Thanks for that. OK, I'll admit I was wrong about where the leak was coming from, but maybe a photo would have only shown what I, (and the rest of my family) was seeing: a drip from the left and side of the ISO valve (which was really coming from the screw control and running down the slope of the fitting (the pipe not being level) and dripping off the nut.
Anyway, thanks to all those who contributed positive suggestions to help the situation.
If anyone still cares, I'm catching the drips in a large shallow tray that just fits under the valve, and will follow Madrabs suggestions when guests have gone.
Hope everyone had a happy Christmas.
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I asked if you were sure of the source bearing in mind that water tracks.
You didn’t help yourself here bud.
You didn’t help yourself here bud.
Valiant attempts here to help the OP with in-depth advice but I fear his skills and experience are not up to doing this simple repair by himself.job could be sorted in 30mins if he knew how.
Can only help people who are willing to help themselves.
Can only help people who are willing to help themselves.
Yup. Made a mistake there.
Yes, limited experience, so didn't want to risk making things worse when I knew I couldn't get hold of our heating engineer over the holiday period. And in fact all I was asking for initially was any recommendations of that might temporarily stem the flow. Obviously there were none, although the suggestion of a clip over some membrane was one.
I will be replacing the two lengths of pipe which are connected by the ISO valve with a single length (rather than replace the valve) when I have the time and leisure to do the job properly.
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