Help with surface socket switch

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Hi I need to remove a surface socket switch and make the live wires safe to work around, can this be done and how? The earth doesn't appear to be sleeved either. The reason I can't just leave it turned off via the circuit breaker is that my other half works from home and needs his PC and monitor on to work and they are on the same circuit.

We're decorating a room and had it skimmed, it was not that great around the surface socket switch so I need to sort that out and then paint so it is not just having it turned off for 5 mins either.

Many thanks
 
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I think you are missing something out. Turning off power opening socket removing mounting screws and replacing socket so it's free to be moved would seem rather simple and would not need a post so what is really going on.
 
This may be a stupid question but what about the earth wire as it is bare does it need to be sleeved, if I accidently touch the wire while working round it would I get an electric shock?
 
The bare wire should be sleeved but that is just rules.

You will not get a shock if all is well with your electrics.

Get some green&yellow sleeving and terminate all the conductors safely so that none can be touched or touch each other.
 
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Can you run an extension lead from a different circuit to power your computer whilst you're working near this socket?
 
For a small amount of earth sleeve I would just grab some old flex and strip a bit off some old flex.

I have heard the "I can't turn it off" before. If it is that vital it will have an UPS (Uninterrupted Power Supply) so power off will not stop it working as long as for not too long. If it does not have an UPS then clearly no problem turning off power as the system operator has clearly decided it's not that important.

You can clearly turn off the power while you are working on it. Yes you may need something to act as strain relief on the cables that could be a tie wrap but if you can't work out that it is required clearly you should not be doing the work.

Electrical work is mainly common sense, There are some bits which can trick one for example isolating is done with an isolator and a MCB may not in certain situations isolate. It would depend on the earth system.

So if you don't know the earth system then turn off main isolator not MCB. If you know it's TN-C-S then OK to use MCB but always prove dead. If you don't have proving gear then don't do the job. If your going to take chances and cut corners then treat it as live even when switched off.

As I said common sense. Neon screw drivers will not prove dead neither are they any good for testing. But they may alert you should you make an error.
 
Turn the power off.
Remove the faceplate.
Check the cables with a multimeter to ensure they are dead.
Swap remove the cables and terminate in a terminal block.
Cover the block with tape to ensure ends or terminal screws can't be touched.
Decorate.
Reverse the above procedure.

Make sure you don't snag a cable when you're screwing the faceplate back in. I normally put a plastic zip bag or some cling film over the terminal block when painting, while ensuring that the cables are angled upwards into the block.
 
Turn the power off.
Remove the faceplate.

Using a known good source check that your multimeter is working.
Check the cables with a multimeter to ensure they are dead.
Using a known good source check that your multimeter is still working.
Swap remove the cables and terminate in a terminal block.
Cover the block with tape to ensure ends or terminal screws can't be touched.
Decorate.
Reverse the above procedure.



I normally put a plastic zip bag or some cling film over the terminal block when painting, while ensuring that the cables are angled upwards into the block.
I also push it all back into the box, possibly using gaffer tape to help it stay in place. That way if you're using a roller you can just go straight over it all rather than having to work around it. Ditto if papering, then carefully cut the paper away with a scalpel when the paste is dry.
 

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