HIVE receiver light going off and pump staying on.

[Redchez77]

We had our kitchen renovated and our 2 year old Worcester boiler was moved to the loft and the HIVE receiver was moved from the kitchen to the airing cupboard. We started to notice that after the hot water had been on the boiler bump would continue to run when it should go off after 10/15mins despite no heating or hot water being called for. We ended up switching off at the isolation switch which turned off the boiler and receiver. We just used the water heater instead until an engineer came out,

When the engineer came out, everything seemed to work as it should (Sod’s Law) and he said it could be a zone valve issue. For our own sanity I needed it to happen again before we went to the expense of new zone valves.

Tonight the hot water came on schedule at 6pm for 45 minutes. At 9pm I noticed the pump was still running (no heating or water being called for) I jiggled the zone valve switch and no difference so then turned the isolation switch off and back on, the HIVE receiver status light however seemed to be flickering and then it went off completley but did come back on and then seemed to fade again, however if I pressed the hot water button the receiver light came on and the hot water (or heating, whichever I pressed came on).

I’ve suspected it may be a wiring issue but the engineer didn’t seem to think so but I’m not entirely convinced, especially now I’ve noticed the intermittent status light issue on the receiver. We’d had no issues at all until it was all moved. Any knowledge of HIVE appreciated.

 

[kidgreen61]

As you have a Worcester boiler, it's most likely that the pump is wired directly to the boiler, rather than from the wiring centre.
The idea is that the boiler keeps the pump running for some time after firing to dissipate heat, others will correct me, but I think it runs until a certain temp is reached, rather than for a set time.
It's possible you may have a fault there

 

[Redchez77]

Thanks, it is staying on a considerable amount of time, it just doesn't stop. The pump is a new pump also. What is not helping is it was done my a family member who has left us in the lurch with this. I got my head round that it could be the zone valve but something with the HIVE receiver status light going on and off is making me uneasy. I'm just scared of spending another £500 (to change zone valves) and that isn't the issue.

 

[Madrab]

When the engineer came out, everything seemed to work as it should (Sod’s Law) and he said it could be a zone valve issue.

If it was the zone valve then the whole system would stay on, boiler included, is this the case or is it just the pump? The pump shouldn't be powered directly from the zone valve rather from the boiler to ensure the boiler can manage the pumps overrun.

If the pump does eventually switch off, even if it's after 15mins or 2 hrs say, then it is being controlled and that control would normally only ever be from the boiler itself. What model of WB is the boiler?

All this is just speculation of course and the engineer will have checked where everything was wired from/to I would hope. I just don't understand why he mentioned the zone valve as to why the pump would stay on.

You say the HIVE's acting up, if it is the status/pairing light then what does it tell you in the HIVE dashboard? Only way to check the HIVE would be to circuit test but if it's not doing it all the time or when engineer visits then impossible for anyone to fault find

 

[Redchez77]

No, it's just the pump and not the boiler. The boiler will be off, no heat or hot water is being called for and the pump runs continuously. The hot water was only on 40 mins last night and 3.5 hours later the pump was still running. When I looked in the airing cupboard the status light on the HIVE kept going on and off too, which I thought was strange.

My brother also installed underfloor heating in the kitchen, but we know this isn't affecting the pump as we've cancelled all programmes on the UFH thermostat and that hasn't been on at all when the pump is on.

Basically the pump is brand new and seemed to work as it should when he first moved the boiler up to the loft, he put a new pump in and had to get someone else to wire the HIVE. Then we noticed that the pump was staying on much longer after any hot water had been turned off, with it being summer we haven't really used heating (my brother who fitted it all ,came out didn't seem to know why and started mentioning electrics but now he isn't responding at all, so we've had to get another engineer in). I realised the the pump had been on for over 24 hours continuously one day. We switched everything off and back on and it worked for a period of time and then started playing up again so we switched it all off again. When the engineer came out, it was all responding as it should, no idea why, so the engineer couldn't definitely say without seeing it but concluded it must be the Zone valve, but I'm still not convinced especially now the status light on the HIVE is going off.

 

[Redchez77]

Sorry, just realised I didn't state the boiler, it's a Greenstar Ri 24kw and no the engineer didn't really investigate the electrics, he didn't take the cover off the HIVE receiver or anything. He said if it was electrics it would either work or wouldn't.

And when the HIVE status light was off last night the dashboard wasn't indicating a problem. I just don't know what to think or the best person to look at this.

 

[Madrab]

Ok, so the system electrics need tested to see where the pump is getting it's power from.

Under normal conditions and certainly with an Ri, the external pump should be wired to the boiler so the boiler can control any over run it needs. So if it is and the boiler is sending power to the pump, that's easy to check the terminals in the boiler to see if the pumps been wired to it, then it's the boiler that's not doing what it should be. If it's not been wired like it should that then it would need more investigation to see what's sending power to the pump.

As far as the green status light (the one on it's own top right?) on the HIVE is concerned, then that could just be a loose wire but looking at 1st pic it seems to look fine but again would need checked.