Hive with Remeha Avanta Plus Boiler

It is very plain that the terminals are designed for connection to an analogue thermostat, if you want to kill your boiler That's up to you. However don't publish it for others to copy and wreck their boiler as well.
 
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It is very plain that the terminals are designed for connection to an analogue thermostat, if you want to kill your boiler That's up to you. However don't publish it for others to copy and wreck their boiler as well.
How do you define "analogue thermostat"?
 
Analogue thermostat is one which gradually increases or decreases the heat output to area measured to maintain heat at required level, a digital thermostat uses a mark/space ratio to increases or decreases the heat output to area measured to maintain heat at required level.

There are cases where analogue is approaching digital, as with fan assisted radiators, where there maybe just two speeds and off, and the thermostat is not truly analogue, but really two stage digital so fan switches on at say 20.5°C then switches to high speed at 20°C, even when a 4 speed fan is used, so 20.5°C, 20.3°C, 20.1°C and 19.9°C one could argue either way as to if analogue or digital, I would personally call it digital, however where there are 255 stages even if not truly analogue most consider it to be analogue.

Same as a cooker control, the simmer-stat is digital, as the time between on/off is rather large, however with induction hobs although it may actually still switch on/off or chop the wave form, it works like an analogue control, so even if not strictly speaking analogue I would still call it analogue.

So for the central heating in this house there are multi analogue controls, and also two digital controls.

So the TRV gradually open and close (analogue) as the close the water pressure increases which in turn causes the by-pass valve to slowly open (analogue) this allows the return water to get hotter and hotter, and the boiler gradually compensates by reducing flame height (analogue) however once the flame height is at a minimum then the boiler starts to cycle (digital) and as the whole house warms up in the end the hall thermostat switches off (digital) stopping the boiler cycling. As the hall cools the thermostat will turn on again, but this only happens when the house as a whole is using less heat than the minimum output of the boiler.

The system is not correct, I should have a wave thermostat in the hall which will tell the boiler to reduce the output, in real terms this equates to the temperature of the circulating water, since before the boiler turns off the water would be cool anyway, then less heat goes out through the flue every time the boiler starts to cycle, however the daft installers ripped out the hard wired thermostat and replaced it with a wireless one, and wave needs a wired connection not wireless, so the cost to reinstate the hard wired thermostat means I am forced to use a digital thermostat to finally turn off the system as warm weather returns, or do it manually.

However since the is a limit to how much a boiler can be modulated, Autumn and Spring there has to be some digital control, however in winter it should be all analogue control. Analogue control means little or no hysteresis in the temperature, digital control means a high hysteresis, so whenever possible we should use analogue control.
 
It is very plain that the terminals are designed for connection to an analogue thermostat, if you want to kill your boiler That's up to you. However don't publish it for others to copy and wreck their boiler as well.
OK, you have explained what you mean by "analogue thermostat". Now kindly explain why you think I would kill the boiler if a volt free on/off thermostat were connected to the Opentherm terminals.
 
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Part of the opentherm protocol is that the boiler should operate if the stat is closed, it wont do the boiler any harm it just indicates the installers lack of understanding heating controls.
 
Part of the opentherm protocol is that the boiler should operate if the stat is closed, it wont do the boiler any harm it just indicates the installers lack of understanding heating controls.
Oh dear! You've let the cat out of the bag.
 
Part of the opentherm protocol is that the boiler should operate if the stat is closed, it wont do the boiler any harm it just indicates the installers lack of understanding heating controls.
I have not read the protocol for opentherm, I know with systems I have worked on, where a temperature sender shows open or closed then it was written into the program to switch off, as it should never be either fully open or fully closed, this is a standard safety feature written into many PLC controlled machines. I got caught out with this when fault finding, thought heater faulty as shorting would not activate heater, but it was simply a faulty sensor.

Once bitten twice shy, so I would never connect an analogue input to a digital sensor, however since you say the protocol does not include any safety close down for wrong inputs, then I suppose it would work, however it would clearly not work correctly.
 
I have not read the protocol for opentherm,
That's obvious from your replies.

As you appear unwilling to read the protocol, which I attached to an earlier post, I will quote the relevant passage:

3.5 The boiler unit must support an important installation feature which allows the terminals at the boiler to be
short-circuited to simulate a heat demand such as can be done with existing on/off boilers.

The short circuit is easily provided by a volt free thermostat and the boiler will then run at max output. Of course the boiler will not modulate, but it will still work.
 
Of course the boiler will not modulate, but it will still work.
That's not strictly correct. It will modulate to maintain the set flow temperature, which may be fixed or determined by, e.g an external weather sensor.
 

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