Honda HRX 426 Lawn Mower Speed

[Burnerman]

Lets forget about that spring for now, I'm referring to the rod from the governor to the throttle linkage system.
Bend the left hand bracket that the rod passes through effectively taking all the slack from the rod (its soft, and can easily be bent back again).
Use the bolt as a plier fulcrum, and you'll get there.
John

 

[Hysteresis]

Lets forget about that spring for now, I'm referring to the rod from the governor to the throttle linkage system.
Bend the left hand bracket that the rod passes through effectively taking all the slack from the rod (its soft, and can easily be bent back again).
Use the bolt as a plier fulcrum, and you'll get there.
John

Thanks John,
I will try that tomorrow in Daylight.
I have thought of designing a sliding link arrangement for the connecting rod so the length of the rod can be adjusted to various lengths and secured with screws, but I may be getting a little to engrossed in the problem when a Steel spring to replace my rubber bands may be the easiest solution.
I will let you know of the attempt at bending the bracket you suggest.
Ian

 

[Hysteresis]

Hi John,
The degree of bending I could get on the left hand end bracket was very minimal without stressing the the throttle assembly. Having said that there was virtually no slack on the linkage anyway.
I think to achieve a more open throttle position with the governor set at its stop position, which is the position of the governor when it is running can only be achieved by shortening the linkage by say 5mm, I think this would be best done by designing and making a variable sliding joint fixed in the desired position with clamping screws or just bend the linkage to effectively shorten it. My problem with the latter is recovering to my present situation if the shortening of the linkage doesn't work.
That spring around the linkage which we referred to earlier is a waste of time as far as I can see. It does absolutely nothing.

 

[Mursal]

Having another look, will the spring under the oil filler (between the cable control and governor linkage) not do exactly the same as the elastic band if its tightened? The operator speed control on the handlebars only tighten this spring, leaving it more difficult for the governors to slow the engine down. Or am I missing something?

You can loosen the governor linkage on the splines as it comes out of the engine and move it in the direction away from the carburetor. But be careful you mark where it was originally.

 

[Burnerman]

Hi John,
The degree of bending I could get on the left hand end bracket was very minimal without stressing the the throttle assembly. Having said that there was virtually no slack on the linkage anyway.
I think to achieve a more open throttle position with the governor set at its stop position, which is the position of the governor when it is running can only be achieved by shortening the linkage by say 5mm, I think this would be best done by designing and making a variable sliding joint fixed in the desired position with clamping screws or just bend the linkage to effectively shorten it. My problem with the latter is recovering to my present situation if the shortening of the linkage doesn't work.
That spring around the linkage which we referred to earlier is a waste of time as far as I can see. It does absolutely nothing.

I think by bending that left hand bracket would achieve the same as your proposal - if we understand each other - just pulling the governor linkage open a bit.
I think the governor on these is secured by just a pinch bolt and no splines - but I can't really recall.
John

 

[Hysteresis]

I think by bending that left hand bracket would achieve the same as your proposal - if we understand each other - just pulling the governor linkage open a bit.
I think the governor on these is secured by just a pinch bolt and no splines - but I can't really recall.
John

I will have another play about with the linkages and let you know how I get on. Thanks so much for your help.
Ian

 

[Bev01]

I had this problem on my Honda HRX 426, and I have fixed it. The linkage from the end of the throttle cable to the carburettor includes a horizontal spring which on the right hand end hooks into a lever. There were two holes in this lever. I unhooked the spring from the left most hole and hooked it into the right most hole. My Honda has been transformed from crawling to walking at a reasonable pace.

However moving the spring to the right hand hole was not easy. The two holes are below the fuel line and my needle nose pliers couldn't reach the end of the spring. I used cooking skewers to remove the spring from both ends. Then I took some three mm plastic string (normally used for tying back plants), pieced a small hole in it, and threaded one end of the spring through it. I was then able to lower the spring holding the plastic thread and with the skewers hook the other end into the right most hole in the lever. I then re-inserted the other end of the spring into its original hole were the access is good enough to use needle nose pliers and then cut away the plastic thread.

My theory is the left most hole is a low power setting used to run the engine in. The right most hole is the normal power setting. I bought my mower off the Internet all in its original packaging as it would be delivered to the dealer. I think the dealer is meant to unpack it, run it for a while on the low power setting, and then move the spring to the normal power hole. They must have a special tool to make re-hooking into the right hole easy. Or they must have needle nose pliers with with a very long thin nose.