Hot tap instalation

Won't it be more than merely the 6psi pressure being 'allowed out' as the water will then boil and steam be formed? ... Look at taking off a car radiator cap when the engine is hot, albeit that is (usually) 13psi.
As I said, 0.4 bar (~6 psi) above atmospheric pressure is a fair bit. If I recall, pressure cookers generally run at a bit under 1 bar above atmos, and they most certainly "WHOOSH" (this time in uppercase :) ) if one opens the valve :)

Kind Regards, John
 
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Another thing to consider is can the waste pipe from the basin under the hot tap ( assuming there is one ) cope with boiling water.
 
I think that some of these ('low powered') so-called 'hot taps' actually store hot water - which makes them pretty inefficient/cost-ineffective.

Kind Regards, John

Are there any tankless instant hot water taps avail? My google search skills are poor as I couldn't see one.

Wifey wanted an instant boiling water tap however I am not enamoured with the idea of a tank.
 
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Even that would not be instant boiling water.

It is not possible to go from room temperature to boiling point instantly when opening a tap.
 
Are there any tankless instant hot water taps avail?
Yes- but, as I implied, they have to be very high powered. You are essentially talking about the equivalent of an electric shower (which can produce pretty hot water 'instantly') - so probably in the ballpark of 10,000 W (10 kW). For a given desired hot water temperature, the lower the (electrical) power, the lower will be the flow rate.

As I mentioned to JohnD in relation to the 1,600 W heater, if one started 'from cold' (I was assuming 18C), it would take about 4 minutes to get 1 litre up to around boiling temp - so a flow rate of about 250 mL per minute (about 4 mL per second) - which, as I said, would require 'patience'!
Wifey wanted an instant boiling water tap however I am not enamoured with the idea of a tank.
As above, one could certainly get very close to 'boiling' (actually 'boiling' might produce difficulties, due to the steam) - but, as above, one would need a heater at least in the ballpark of a shower (i.e. 10+ kW) to get a sensible flow rate.

Kind Regards, John
 
Even that would not be instant boiling water. It is not possible to go from room temperature to boiling point instantly when opening a tap.
I think you're probably taking 'instantly' a little too literally - even a shower does not produce 'full temp' water 'instantly' when 'opening the tap'- at the very least there will be a little cold water to be initially 'flushed out', and the 'works' to be heated up.

However, one can certainly get as close to 100° as one wants, with as high a flow rate as one wants, by having a high enough powered heater. As I've just written, although perfectly feasible in terms of heating, literally 'boiling' could well present problems because of the steam generation.

Off the top of my head (not even the back of an envelope), I think a 10 kW heater could produce about 1.5 litres/minute of 'near-boiling' water (with the ionbset 'nearly instant' when one opens the tap). I'll do the sums properly and will report back if that is wildly out.

However, I think what one has tio do here is "think shower".

Kind Regards, John
 
Not really, a shower does not deliver boiling water.

The purpose of the devices being discussed is to make tea with water straight from the tap.
 
Another thing to consider is can the waste pipe from the basin under the hot tap ( assuming there is one ) cope with boiling water.
Totally off-topic, but that reminds me of something I experienced a few decades ago.

A hospital ICU (then ITU!) had a big problem of nasty bacteria breeding in the (exposed) bottle traps below the countless hand-wash basins that were hanging off the walls. They therefore replaced them with (metal!) ones with heating elements, designed to periodically boil the water in the traps.

Hence, about once per hour, each of the basins (not synchronised) suddenly (and without warning) turned into a 'geyser' shooting a spurt of boiling water and steam up out of the waste of the basin - and showering anyone who was close. I'm not sure whether 'elf and safety folk existed in those days but, if they did, they must have been having kittens - there were 'warning signs' adjacent to each basin, but since the 'eruptions' were sudden and unannounced, there wasn't really anything one could do in response to the 'warnings' :)

Kind Regards, John
 
Not really, a shower does not deliver boiling water.
It's not - but, as I said, there's no reason why the same technology could not be used to get water as close as one wanted to 100°C. Showers have built in mechanisms to prevent one turning the temp up that far.
The purpose of the devices being discussed is to make tea with water straight from the tap.
It varies quite a lot from tea to tea, but I think you'll find that the 'recommended' optimum temp for brewing tea varies in the range 80-96 °C (I think around 90° for many teas), and the 'experts' certainly all seem to say that one should never use literally boiling water - and such temps are quite attainable with shower-like technology (indeed, quite probably with a shower, if one could disable its temperature-limiting measures).

I would think that there are few, if any, normal needs for 'literally boiling' water 'on tap'.

Kind Regards, John
 
I have always thought the water for tea had to be boiling.

I notice a difference even if the kettle switched off a short while before.
 
I have always thought the water for tea had to be boiling. I notice a difference even if the kettle switched off a short while before.
I think that's what most of us have been brought up to believe - to the extent of the 'warm the pot' advice.

It's the temperature that matters, not whether or not it is 'boiling'. I gather that they had problems making tea up Everest since, although they boiled the water, at that altitude it boiled at too low a tempo to make tea satisfactorily.

However, if you Google the topic you will find plenty like ....
Water temperatures that are too hot dissolve tannins and destroy the other desirable compounds in tea. Thermal shock from overly hot water can also burn sensitive tea leaves. The result will be a bitter, astringent, and unbalanced brew. The primary rule to remember when heating water to brew tea is to never boil the water.
Generally, for good leaf tea the water should be below boiling. This is because the amino acids (which produce the tea's flavour) dissolve at the lower temperatures. Tea made with water at 100°C will be more astringent and less sweet.
If you are a real stickler and want to get it exactly right most white teas and green teas are best at 70°C. For black and oolong teas use water around 85°C.
The water temperature for black tea should be 90 to 98oC and for green tea around 80oC. Always read the instructions on pack.
Some general guidelines for the different categories of tea follow if temperature information isn't available.
White teas: 160–185°F (71–85°C)
Yellow teas: 175°F (79°C)
Green teas: 140–190°F (60–88°C)
Oolong teas: 180–200°F (82–93°C)
Black teas: 190–200°F (88–93°C)
Pu'er teas: 200–212°F (93–100°C)
Many moons ago I attended a fancy "tea tasting" event (a sort of glorified up-market 'afternoon tea'). We were presented with a series of ('leaf' of course!) teas. Each one came with a jug of recently-boiled water with a thermometer, and we were told (different for each tea) what temp it had to fall to before we poured in on the leaves - and also stopwatches, to tell us how long thereafter we should 'pour it' :)

Kind Regards, John
 

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