Swap your valve actuators over?
If I swap them will I still not have a problem with the HW valve body that needs replaced per previous answers?Swap your valve actuators over?
If I swap them will I still not have a problem with the HW valve body that needs replaced per previous answers?
Pipe below HW motorised valve has change in temperature when HW turned on at programmer and shuts off when turned off. Any ideas what needs looked at next why water so hot in hot water tank when not turned on? I also got a new pump installed last month. CheersCould you not just watch the movement of the actuators business end, when the HW is turned on and off? It should rotate back and forth through 90 degrees. You could also turn the actual water valve through 90 degrees with a pair of pliers - starting with it off/right angles to the pipes, whilst feeling the pipe for change in temperature. That would confirm the valve is working.
I have recently had my programmer eph t27 hw moved to new location and this maybe when problem seemed to start also.
Pipe below HW motorised valve has change in temperature when HW turned on at programmer and shuts off when turned off. Any ideas what needs looked at next why water so hot in hot water tank when not turned on? I also got a new pump installed last month. Cheers
The two pipes that connect to coil are hot same temperature. The pipe from HW motorised valve is only hot in the circle part above the stat.For the hot water in your cylinder to heat ,then hot water from your boiler has to flow through the cylinder coil ,and back to the boiler. The mechanical part of the valve body would need to be open ,even partially,for that to happen.
With no demand for hot water at the programmer ,and central heating on at programmer ,feel the two pipes that connect to the cylinder coil . If both get to the same temperature ,then hot boiler water is flowing through the coil.
Have turned the immersion off at circuit.If there is no heated water going into the cylinder heating coils when the HW is turned to off, then that is obviously not the source of heat. You need to be looking elsewhere and the only other likely source is the immersion heater. Try turning the MCB/RCBO for the immersion heater off.
Do you mean the pipework ,from the area you circled ,upto the zone valve is not hot ? And the bottom pipe from coil is VERY hot ? All with only central heating running ?The two pipes that connect to coil are hot same temperature. The pipe from HW motorised valve is only hot in the circle part above the stat.
Yes that's correct both circled areas hot and pipework from valve until it bends coming down not hot. Heating off now 1hr30mins and circled area above the stat is still hot all other pipes cold and immersion still off at circuit.Do you mean the pipework ,from the area you circled ,upto the zone valve is not hot ? And the bottom pipe from coil is VERY hot ? All with only central heating running ?
No discolouration in hot waterHave you noticed any discolouration in your domestic hot water ?
If you run programmer on hot water only ,no central heating ,and feel the two pipes ( circled) where they meet the cylinder ,which one heats up the first ??
Is there any signs of your loft tanks overflow warning pipes ( usually up near your roof eaves) dripping water out ?
Is the smaller loft tank ( F&E) on a higher level than the cold water storage cistern ?
It sounds like your coil may be perforated.
Is there any signs of your loft tanks overflow warning pipes ( usually up near your roof eaves) dripping water out ?
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No sign of overflow from outside do I need to check anything in the tanks in attic?
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