Hotpoint FF200L Fridge Freezer Issue

[BABYCAKES]

I have a Hotpoint FF200L but the fridge is not going cold.

I notice that the damper in the fridge is not opening by itself even on the self-test. I replaced it but it still is not opening.

However, if I lift the damper flap, the piston comes out and holds the flap open. It seems as though there isnt enough grunt to open the flap on the damper.

Any thoughts what might be causing this?

If I leave the damper off, then the fridge gets too cold and some of the items freeze!

 

[yardie]

I am not familiar with these but you need to identify the part that operates the damper. must be a solenoid of some kind that pushes out a piston that pushes the flap open.

this 'solenoid' will then need to be tested to ensure it is working i.e not faulty before looking further i.e checking for voltage at the solenoid

the fridge is clearly getting cold enough so doubt it has anything to do with the refrigerant gas

 

[BABYCAKES]

The part number is FBZ-118FA

It has 4 wires coming to it from the back of the fridge. Two wires drive a motor, which pushes out a piston. Two wires go to a circuit board.

The piston comes out but only if I manually hold the flap open, otherwise it seems to struggle to push the flap, and thats why cold air isn't coming into the fridge. I suspect that the power comes from the control board, but as I don't have a wiring diagram I cannot be sure. I am handy with a soldering iron, so happy to replace any components if anyone can help with the diagnosis.

The offending part is as follows:

IMG_5108

• BABYCAKES
• 9 Nov 2017

Hotpoint Damper FBZ-118FA

IMG_5107

• BABYCAKES
• 9 Nov 2017

Hotpoint Damper FBZ-118FA

 

[yardie]

are you in the uk?

ok so its a combined thermostat and damper switch.

test the switch by applying voltage across the 2 black leads, where are you? in the UK???. the piston should activate and open the flap.

the thermostat needs testing with a dmm for resistance, if its open cct you know its dud.

 

[BABYCAKES]

The thermostat wires are low resistance - almost no resistance.

Not sure where I can find a 110 V PSU to test the motor. But I have the original part and the new part and they both fail to push out the piston to open the flap. The replacement part does push the piston out but only if I help by lifting the flap first. I guess that means that the motor is not being provided with enough power to drive it. Is there anything that I can do to fix that?

Yes I am in the UK.

 

[yardie]

trace the 4 wires back to find where they go

 

[BABYCAKES]

difficult as they disappear behind the internals of the fridge. I suspect they go to the control board on the top of the fridge but without a service manual, I cannot be sure.

 

[yardie]

ok, are you able to check for voltage at the damper, connect it back up and see if theres voltage on the thermo wires and the damper motor wires.

heat the stat and see if the voltage changes on both the stat and the damper motor

 

[Alec_t]

The piston comes out but only if I manually hold the flap open, otherwise it seems to struggle to push the flap

Sounds like there's excess friction in the mechanism. Lubrication dried out?

 

[BABYCAKES]

can i pull out the piston and squeeze in some 3-in-1?

 

[yardie]

but doesnt explain why neither are working, is the 'new part' brand new?

 

[BABYCAKES]

Yes. The new part is brand new.

I have measured the voltage on the connector where the damper thermostat connects. The connectors to the motor read 90V ac normally, and this goes up to 240V when I put the unit into self-test mode (ie. when the damper opens).

Under load, the voltage across the motor is 1.6V ac.

This doesn't seem right, as the motor on the damper says 90V ac on it, so is the 240V damaging the motor?

Does anyone have a service manual to see what I should be getting?

 

[yardie]

your 1st photo shows a metal 'plate' screwed to the damper, presumably this acts as a spring to close the flap. is there def one on the old damper?

it isnt a transit plate is it, to prevent damage whilst being installed?

 

[BABYCAKES]

There is a metal plate on the part that was originally in the fridge and there is one on the new part. The part in the fridge was working originally and only failed recently.

I am not sure that the voltage should go up to 240V. I fear that cooked the old motorised flap and will cook my new motorised flap.

 

[yardie]

its going to be a case of tracing the wires back to their origin to establish whats driving the stat and the motor

with the machine unplugged use your dmm to trace the wires rather than physically follow their path.

take photos of both sides of any pcb boards etc... look for blown or suspicious components