How can I become a DIY electrician?

I never said I used the multimeter for live work, its just hadny for testing things like if pipes are bonded (I know its no use to check the proper measurements but and my case it clearly showed the earth bonding was very weak).

I am aware the external solar lights come under part p, but the one I intend to install is an all in one unit, they have 5 star view on Amazon where most of them have 1 star due to lack of light.

I get the feeling people tend to pick on the DIYers on a lot on here, BUT they they are plenty of people out there carrying out dangerious installations who never get bad comments because they never seek professional advice.

I once did a job and saw the owner was showing of the new sockets he had put in for the computer (the computer I was fixing) I asked how he did and he replied I took the conections from the wall light which is no longer in use, I just need to tell people not to switch on the light switch as it will turn the computer off!!!!

Only last week I walked out of a job as all the owner wanted to know is how cheap I could fix this dead PC for, I asked for an extension lead she gave me one that has cut in the middle and joined with insulation tape.
 
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But how do you double quote?
It happens automagically when you quote a post with quotes.

Eric - do you have something against using the quote button?
I see easy when you know how!!!!!!!!
But how do you double quote?


If you want to split one up that already has split sections, just make sure you add [ quote] [ /quote] tags around what you want, so your post above could have looked like this:

I will just buy the 17th edition
And the OSG, the EGTTBR, a good guide to the Wiring Regulations, and Guidance notes 1, 3, 7 & 8. See this: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=75416#75416[/QUOTE]
Well book 3 at least but I can’t see even an allied trade being able to understand BS7671:2008 it would be like asking most electricians what is dotted decimal may be easy with someone to explain but hard to pick-up without.

and just make sure I only do work permited under part P
There is nothing not permitted under Part P...
I concur DIY’er is allowed to do the lot it is easy jobs which get daft replace a non run on fan for run on fan and council want £70 which is more than whole job costs?

The outdoor lights don't need to be bright so I will just use solar ones.
By "don't need to be bright" do you mean "don't actually need to illuminate anything, just give off a gentle decorative glow"?
In the main I concur but using solar cells can also require part p if not one piece unit again daft prices from council.

I have a multi meter for checking resistance, and I have a very basic socket tester which is pretty useless as they don't test the resistance of connections etc.
Start looking on eBay for insulation resistance, continuity, loop & RCD testers....
To hire all singing dancing £75 per week. Single meter about £35 per week. Since I would think you will soon get fed up I would hire for first job and see how you get on.


Changing light fittings/sockets/switches in none special zones is as much as I would ever need to do anyway.
That's a bit different from "What is the easiest way of becoming a P part competent person?".... :confused:
That’s now all I do and I am qualified as costs too much to do small jobs under Part P full re-wire OK but add a socket in kitchen no way.

It seems like being a domestic sparkie must be a dying trade if with all the courses you need to take, although most trades/careers take several years to learn.
You've always needed (as in "should take") all those courses.
Again I concur but for many years the domestic trade did many things that in industry would have been an no no and rules have not changed much only the enforcement and still you get people asking can’t I do xxxx without fitting an RCD. In industry it was why did that fail. On same RCD as what! Then fit RCBO’s now. i.e. down time costs money and forget rules and regulations industrial injuries are also expensive so it was done correct and any chance’ers were quickly shown the door well at least in the main as I carried on working and now it’s the same for domestic market.

__________________

That’s my opinions
Eric
P.S. like yourself I did get a degree so we know what that means!!!
 
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I get the feeling people tend to pick on the DIYers on a lot on here,
I don't think they do, but sometimes people come here asking questions which clearly show that they are so out of their depth that they don't have a chance of getting it right and they don't realise that - the old "unknown unknowns" problem.

BUT they they are plenty of people out there carrying out dangerious installations who never get bad comments because they never seek professional advice.
Absolutely.
 
I just get bored as fitting power supplies... is not stimulating when you have done is 10000 times.

Try fitting them live....? ;)

JOKE BTW....

Hehe I did actually get electricuted once by a PC. I was about 14 years old at the time and was fitting a hard drive or something, I dropped a screw in the chasis and put a magnetic screwdriver in to try get to it, the old 'AT' style cases had a a live 240v switch, it was plugged in, the screw driver touched the live and the numpty that built the machine (bought from loot) never botheredf to connect the earth. I had a hell of a shock of that!

Thankfully the ATX power supplies are far safer as all the mains voltage is concealed in the unit but I've known plenty of them to go bang and I am surprised more of the cheaper ones have not set on fire.

I know there has always been regulations, but for example above my bathroom the lighting circuit seems to be wired up using insulation tape, I don't know if there was terminal block inside that as I didn't dare disturb it (I was fiting a new valve to the cold water tank at the time). Either it looks poor quality work and there is probably now way that would be signed of now.
 
That’s now all I do and I am qualified as costs too much to do small jobs under Part P full re-wire OK but add a socket in kitchen no way.
The only extra cost is the annual fee for NICEIC/NAPIT/ECA etc - how much can that add to your hourly rate?
 
The way the electrical trade is going it seems you will need a degree in physics before you can even start the C&G courses soon or later :p:.

The reverse is true.

If only I could find an 'electrician' who understood basic electrical principles and could both read and write!
 
I never said I used the multimeter for live work, its just hadny for testing things like if pipes are bonded (I know its no use to check the proper measurements but and my case it clearly showed the earth bonding was very weak).
yeah my point was you need to know the limits of the meter, i was talking in terms of resistance (hence not on a live circuit). I am not trying to discourage you because you dont have the right tools (I am a DIYer), just making you aware so you dont fall into the trap many do.

Depends on the multimeter. I have a Metrawatt multimeter accurate to 5 decimal places even on the milliohm ranges...

that does look like a nice meter but on the specs it quotes the accuracy at the top of the measuring range upper limits, ie for low ohmic values its accurate as you describe at 100ohms; not on sub ohmic values. To accurately measure very low resistances you need a device which gives a high current, likewise to measure very high resistances the meter needs to supply a high voltage (200-500V), don’t get me wrong, Im not a spark and thus use a multimeter to check if something is connected but not to ‘test it’ to the extent required on a minor works certificate etc.
 
that does look like a nice meter but on the specs it quotes the accuracy at the top of the measuring range upper limits, ie for low ohmic values its accurate as you describe at 100ohms; not on sub ohmic values. To accurately measure very low resistances you need a device which gives a high current,

IIRC, the milliohm ranges have a 1A measuring current; but that is irrelevant to the thread. I was just pointing out that people shouldn't generalise without knowing the details...
 
Fair enough, on the high precision Metrawatt multimeter I looked up it only used 1mA on low ohm measurements, but I appreciate there will be different models. I should have said generally. My statement stayed on the side of caution though, if someone wanted to use their meter for more they would then check its suitable, better than thinking a ‘multimeter’ is what electricians use as many people do.
 
Just meant somebody that could do work in their own house without the insurance refusing to pay out if the house burnt down due to a faulty washing machine or something.
 

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