How did he do it?

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8 Sep 2007
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Bradford
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United Kingdom
Hello I needed a new thermostatic valve on one of the radiators and I thought this was a little to much for me to do on my own so I called in a plumber.

A young lad arrived the next day (18 at the most) and I was a little skeptical but had to leave him to it cause I had work.

There are no drain offs on the whole system (thats why I didnt attempt it). The lad seemed pretty confident he could do it 1-2 hours but I didnt think he would.

However, I arrived back during my lunch 1 hour 20 mins later and he had gone, posted the key and sorted the problem.. a new valve and the rad which was now working and was getting hot (which it werent before)

I was amazed!

How did he do it so quick!?

Thanks
 
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a bung yes i seen he with that. a little black traingle thing?

how is it done i am thinkin of replacing some on my own :]
 
What you need to do is have 2 bungs and bung up the feed from the small F+E tank and the vent pipe.

Then pull your carpet back, quickly wip your old valve off and change it.

Sit back and admire ;)
 
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15 mins if using the same tails, to be honest if I'm doing a few and they need the tails changed I tend to drain down even if it bungs.
 
iamhere2 can use bungs to fit a lockshield with drainoff as he hasn't got one :)
 
Why use bungs when you can snatch it & be in & out in 15 minutes. ;)
 
How can you guys use bungs or snatch a new valve when you have to get the old olive and nut off the pipe?

That can take 10 minutes alone!

Tony
 
Agile..So where would the problem be changing a nut and olive using bungs. Remove olive 30 seconds with a junior hacksaw and flat bladed screw driver......Have done boiler swaps on bungs cracking simple tool 95% success rate with it
 
Boiler swaps on bungs !! whats the point? surely your gonna have to flush out the new boiler per manufacturers anyway?

I use them sometimes, never snatched anthing before while the waters still live, seen it done on a zonevalve under the floor once, but Im to scared to anywhere else.
 
Agile said:
How can you guys use bungs or snatch a new valve when you have to get the old olive and nut off the pipe?

That can take 10 minutes alone!

Tony

Are you not aware how bungs work tony?
 
Scottishgasman....Perfectly clean system always inhibited pass any water test so new boiler casting holds 2/3 pints of water what is that going to do to an existing system,Stick a hose on new boiler connections before fitting to flush anything out. Don`t kid yourself that every job has been done by the book in the past or will be in the future..

Snatching puts a bit of excitement into the job now and again ,why do you think the gasboard supply you with such big macs. :LOL: ..

Cracking result yesterday very dodgey beginning to second half though
 
Sealed systems:

Bleed all air from the system (otherwise it willl take forever to "pull a vacuum")
Close any auto air vents
Use one of these http://www.waldco.co.uk and drain water until it stops.
Check expansion vessel pre-charge and if necessary pump up.
Loosen cap nut on pipe side of valve
Unscrew rad side of valve
Swivel valve around and blu-tack the rad tail to seal it.
Remove valve
Normally the old olive and cap nut can stay - sometimes a little needs cutting off the pipe.If the olives stuffed use a small tube to suck out the water and solder on a new bit of tube. (Being very careful the pipe doesn't slip through the floorboards :) )
Unscrew rad tail if necessary
Re-fit valve
Normally replace the auto air vent (guaranteed to leak otherwise)

And for Open vented:

Tie up float valve
Normally bale out and clean feed tank
Refil tank and bleed out any air (reasons as above)
Plug or cap feed
Cap vent (normally have to cut off corroded end of vent pipe or clean up)
Follow procedure as above with the drain kit.

Provided there is a short upstand of pipe its easy to swap valves and change radiators. Sometimes where idiots have grouted around the pipes or the pipework is solid in the floor new pipework will need to be soldered on to adjust the position slightly.


Don't bother with the grease in the kit, just use a damp cloth wrapped around the pipe underneath work better. Normally the bit that goes around the pipe sits the otherway to drain the water. Get another tray - the ones in the kit and too weak. And clearly he's no plumber in the demo :)
 
Thought I would be a smart ar$£ the other day and do a simple tap washer on a hot tap with the system live.(only a 45 sec job)

Meant going up attic to find and shut Vv ,and anyway forgot to bring steps.

Anyway went for it and.........................................................................

Any one know a good burns unit!!!!!! :oops:
 

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