How do I work my heating system?

[annafloss]

Hi folks,

I am hoping someone can shed some light on the heating system in my new flat. We moved in here about a year ago and have been having problems with our bills, that are working out to be over £100 a month. The flat IS completely electric, no gas at all, but it is small, well insulated (double glazing etc) and we rarely have the heating on (the ones that we can figure out how to use anyway!!)

We have storage heaters - two in the living room seem to be run on the off-peak tariff, because despite the fact we keep them switched on at the wall, only seem to belt out heat during the day. We also have 1 in the main bedroom and 1 in the spare room, which are usually kept switched off at the wall unless it's freezing! All the other heaters aren't used at all.

I recently discovered two switches (photos below) in a cupboard next to the boiler. I am unsure whether to keep these switched on or not - and whether they're keeping our bills up... I think they might be something to do with the immersion, but I was under the impression that the flat is electric heating then the immersion should be left on? I'm also unsure as to which switch is which.

We have an Electrisaver timer in our kitchen (picture below) which I think must be something to do with it... I'm sure it's a booster, but if I leave the immersion on (by the switch in the cupboard - if that's what the switch is for), then surely i don't need a boost? And there should always be hot water?

Since we've lived here, we've never ran out of hot water.. I think this might be the reason why our bills are so high, but as you can see - I'm clueless!

Any help would be greatly appreciated - being a youngster in my first home I'm trying my best to sort all this out! I've posted pictures below to hopefully give you all a better idea of our setup.

Anna

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• annafloss
• 25 Feb 2011
• 1

Untitled

• annafloss
• 25 Feb 2011
• 1

Untitled

• annafloss
• 25 Feb 2011
• 1

 

[stem]

There are usually two heating elements fitted to the hot water cylinder. The bottom one is only energised during the low rate tariff and heats the whole hot water cylinder.

If you run out of hot water during the day the boost button operates the top element at the normal rate tariff for one hour. This heats just the top of the cylinder to top up the hot water.

This is normally how it is wired, but I have seen the boost function operating the bottom element.

The isolation switches in the cupboard next to the cylinder are a requirement of the wiring regulations for local isolation.

The water heating controls won't have anything to do with the storage heaters. If you tell us what make / type of storage heaters you have someone may be able to send you the instructions so you know how to operate them efficiently.

Althought the switches on your storage heaters are left on, they will only be energised when the low rate comes on (this is automatic). Whilst they are charging the heaters output is reduced, so that the heat is kept inside until you need it, so during the day, the heat is released into the room.

The heaters normally installed in bedrooms aren't usually storage heaters. They are often panel radiators that heat up when switched on and use electricty at whatever tariff you are on at the time.

Electric heating isn't cheap even using off peak rates, the cost you mention doesn't seem at all unreasonable to me. Especially if that price includes the electricity used for lighting, TV, electrical appliances, cooking etc., In the big picture, you don't have a standing charge for gas, or need to have an annual service every year. Or fork out for a £2500 for a boiler change every 10 years or so. Storage heaters on the other hand are simple devices and seem to last for ever and if they do fail can usually be repaired.

 

[annafloss]

Thanks for your reply!

In that case, would you say the isolation switches in the cupboard correspond with the bottom and top heating elements? So, if I maybe try just leaving the bottom one on, as opposed to them both?

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm new to this living alone malarky!

 

[kirkgas]

Thanks for your reply!

In that case, would you say the isolation switches in the cupboard correspond with the bottom and top heating elements? So, if I maybe try just leaving the bottom one on, as opposed to them both?

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm new to this living alone malarky!

you shouldnt need to isolate the top immersor as long as the booster switch is wired properly, however it wont do any harm, follow the wire fromm the top immersor and switch off the corresponding switch if the amount of hot water decreases then the wiring is wrong and the top immersor hasbeen on when not required, leading to 24/7 hot water and high bills, if the volume of hot water stays the same then you are no worse off