How much damage can I do?

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I've recently moved into a new house and have two related problems with the current central heating system. It's an open vent Y plan system, so I've got 2 tanks in the loft and a cylinder, pump and diverted valve in the airing cupboard. The boiler is a Potterton Prima F60. The programmer is a Drayton Tempus Three.

The first problem is that I am unable to set separate on/off programmes for the central heating and hot water - they can only be set to come on and go off at the same times. This seems very inefficient as I'm never going to need that much hot water. It is possible for the central heating and hot water to work independently by setting one to 'twice' and the other to 'once' or by overriding the programme. So, the system does allow for the central heating to be on without the hot water and vice versa. I just think that the programmer is so old that it doesn't have the functionality.

I've looked at a Drayton LP522 5/2 day programmer and I'd like to know if I could simply replace the old backplate with the new backplate and wire it up in the same way (it doesn't fit the old one). The terminals and the wiring diagram on the programmers look the same (see photos). However I'm not an expert and I've no idea where the various wires go. Do I risk blowing the boiler PCB by giving it a go?

The second problem is that there is no room thermostat in the house. There are TRVs on every radiator but this is unsatisfactory. Four example, if I want to go out for the day and leave the heating on low, I have to go around the house and turn down the TRV on every radiator (12 in total). When I get back I have to go around and turn them all up again. Also, even when the house is nice and warm the boiler is continually clicking on and off as it checks the temperature of the water in the system. This also seems very inefficient.

I'd like to install a room thermostat and as there is no existing wiring I am thinking about a wireless one. Ideally I'd like have the ability to be able to set the temperature to vary during the day, e.g. 12 degrees overnight when it's really cold, ramping up to 20 degrees just before I get up. My heating engineer cannot seem to find one that will do this. Most seem to be a replacement for the programmer unit and most only seem to work with a combi boiler.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a thermostat/ programmer combination that would do what I want it to? Given my lack of experience with all things electrical, I'm probably going to leave the thermostat to a professional. The heating engineer has quoted me £360 including VAT to fit a new programmer and a wireless but non programmable thermostat. Is this a good price? It sounds a bit pricey given the cost of the parts.
 
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Arno has a point. How many inlets does your motorised valve have, 2 or 3.

Not being able to seperate hw and ch doesn't sound like Y plan, but maybe it's just down to the type of programmer you have .
 
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Arno has a point. How many inlets does your motorised valve have, 2 or 3.

Not being able to seperate hw and ch doesn't sound like Y plan, but maybe it's just down to the type of programmer you have .

Some older programmers are twin channel but have only one set of times for both, morning and afternoon that the heating or water can be set to

i.e. 9am-11am then 6pm-10pm
then you set hw or heating to once or twice to run them at that time
 
Arno has a point. How many inlets does your motorised valve have, 2 or 3.

Not being able to seperate hw and ch doesn't sound like Y plan, but maybe it's just down to the type of programmer you have .

Some older programmers are twin channel but have only one set of times for both, morning and afternoon that the heating or water can be set to

i.e. 9am-11am then 6pm-10pm
then you set hw or heating to once or twice to run them at that time


Good point, If I remember correctly the Siemens RWB2E is like that.
 
Many thanks all,

The heating engineer said that it was a Y plan and everything that I have read suggests that it is.

The valve has 3 pipes, one from the pump, one to the hot water cylinder and one going down through the floor.

I just think that's it's a really old programmer and it doesn't have the functionality. I can definitely have the hot water on without the central heating and visa versa. I just can't specify separate on/off programmes for each.

I'll take a look at the Drayton T720R.
 
On Whitespirit66's recommendation I spoke to the technical boys at Drayton today and they said that their MiTime RF pack 2 is exactly what I need. It has exactly the same backplate wiring as my old Tempus 3 and that any idiot could swap the old backplate for the new one. Also, there is no separate wiring required for the thermostat as it's all built into the programmer. It remains to be seen whether I can attain the level of an idiot but I'll let you know how I get on.
 
Good choice. These controls are quite new on the market. I like them, because you can deselect the TPI/TP/chrono proportional facility on the room stat and make it run like a proper stat. Honeywell stats can't deselect the TPI/C P function and the way it works is not only difficult to explain to customers, but a pain to live with. It's not uncommon for the Honeywells to fire up the boiler every 10 mins even if house up to temp.

Hope I haven't over complicated the situation, but when you fit your MiStat, I wouldn't run it on the TPI settings.

Come back if you have any installation questions. ;)
 
The new Drayton MiTime programmer and wireless room thermostat have been installed. Very straightforward really. Simply a case of removing the old backplate and wiring the new one up in the same way. All done in 30 minutes including fixing the thermostat to the wall. The pre bound wireless thermostat required absolutely no new wiring and no setting up-you just put the batteries in!

All seems to be working fine so very pleased as I've save quite a bit of money by doing it myself rather than employing a heating engineer.

Only disappointment is that you cannot programme the desired temperature for each programme period. It's a shame as it would seem to be quite a simple software development as it is possible to set the overall desired temperature via the programming unit. The technical guy at Drayton agreed!

So WiteSpirit66; tell me about TPI and why I should turn it off?
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