Good luck, you'll need to use those new seals when rebuilding the boiler. Make sure you compare the sizes of the orings too as some are very similar in size.
How simple is it to replace diaphragm in Worcester 24cdi?
- Thread starter Spanky2k
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Well the wife is out tonight so I figured this afternoon would be the best time to have a bash at it. On the whole, I've found taking it apart to be much easier than I'd thought. Most of the time I spent on it was trying to work out if I'd missed something when removing the diverter as it seemed way too stiff. It took a significant amount of force to get off. If I had to take it apart again, I reckon it could easily be done in about half an hour.
I haven't assembled it again yet though - that might take longer. The old diaphragm doesn't actually look to be that bad - there aren't any holes in it anyway. The problem I think is actually just a shed load of limescale. The 'prong' coming out from the diverter to the micro switch was all gunked up and didn't have anything like a smooth motion. Aged rubber in the diaphragm and a gunked up system could easily stop the switch from activating. That's my reckoning anyway.
I'll go about the reassembly tomorrow. I got sidetracked by some phone calls and a conversational neighbour so I couldn't spend as much time working on it as I'd hoped. Plus Wickes is now closed and I'd like to get a tub of silicone grease for the reassembly. I've put some viakal on the limescale and am going to try cleaning that up first too.
I haven't assembled it again yet though - that might take longer. The old diaphragm doesn't actually look to be that bad - there aren't any holes in it anyway. The problem I think is actually just a shed load of limescale. The 'prong' coming out from the diverter to the micro switch was all gunked up and didn't have anything like a smooth motion. Aged rubber in the diaphragm and a gunked up system could easily stop the switch from activating. That's my reckoning anyway.
I'll go about the reassembly tomorrow. I got sidetracked by some phone calls and a conversational neighbour so I couldn't spend as much time working on it as I'd hoped. Plus Wickes is now closed and I'd like to get a tub of silicone grease for the reassembly. I've put some viakal on the limescale and am going to try cleaning that up first too.
I hope you have prepared some O rings / washers.
The left up male union into the heat exachanger will be 100% certainly leaking if you don't replace that O ring.
Good luck!
The left up male union into the heat exachanger will be 100% certainly leaking if you don't replace that O ring.
Good luck!
Sponsored Links
All fixed up now. Most of the assembly went easy enough but it was the pins that caused me the most problem, they just wouldn't go in. Wasted hours on them, disassembling and reassembling the whole thing to try to work out where I'd gone wrong. Found some advice online to remove the pin from the right bypass pipe and reattach it afterwards. Suddenly it worked without a problem.
I don't know how many hours the whole job took me in total. Quite a few. However I could do it again in under an hour now, that's just the way of things!
I did have an old tub of silicone hidden down in the basement but I wanted to get a new pot and like I said before, there's a Wickes down the road and Plumbfix nearby. There are probably 10 stores that stock silicone grease within a 10 minute drive from here!
I don't know how many hours the whole job took me in total. Quite a few. However I could do it again in under an hour now, that's just the way of things!
I did have an old tub of silicone hidden down in the basement but I wanted to get a new pot and like I said before, there's a Wickes down the road and Plumbfix nearby. There are probably 10 stores that stock silicone grease within a 10 minute drive from here!
F.cking Tupperware boilers only fit for the skip!!!
Hi, yes I know this is a very old post but I’m hoping someone can help me out, I’m about to do the same thing, but a lot of people say don’t touch the isolation valve on the C/H flow and return as they are prone to leak after, need some advice on what to turn off to do this job, should I turn the mains cold water off and maybe close all radiator valves upstairs (as my boiler is on the ground floor)
Any help or photos would be much appreciated thanks
Your lack of knowledge of how your heating system works suggests you are heading for a world of pain, I suggest you get a fixed price repair from WB.
Thanks for your very helpful advice, I was only asking for some simple friendly advice.
and its the best advice you could have unless you seriously want to pish the mrs off by leaving her with no heat or hot water. There is a reason why all the Pros are saying do not attempt this yourself
It doesn’t look a difficult job to do maybe a little awkward granted, but I’m a aircraft engineer and have fitted far worse and difficult components, was only asking for someone with experience of doing this work and which is the best way to isolate the water on the C/H and cold water supply will be turned off at the mains, all electrics isolated and covered up plus front control panel removed so no water gets into the circuit board.
Go for it, please let us know how you get on.
- Joined
- 1 Dec 2021
- Messages
- 1,904
- Reaction score
- 290
- Country
Have a look through youtube vids. You might find something similar.
Video it and let us all see how you get on, should be fun
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
Similar threads
